FIVE DECADES OF EXCELLENCE: A COLLECTOR'S GUIDE TO THE GIRARD-PERREGAUX LAUREATO

When Girard-Perregaux introduced the Laureato in 1975, the Swiss Manufacture quietly revolutionised the high-end sports watch category with a creation that prioritised architectural balance over aggressive styling. The Girard-Perregaux Laureato, celebrating its 50th anniversary in 2025, stands as a testament to the enduring appeal of thoughtful design and meticulous craftsmanship. What began as a bold statement in 1975 has evolved into one of the most distinctive watch families in haute horlogerie, all while maintaining the DNA that made it revolutionary from the start.

The Laureato occupies a unique position in horological history. While its contemporaries often relied on famous designers or dramatic aesthetic statements, the Laureato emerged from Girard-Perregaux's in-house team with a quieter confidence—a watch that spoke through its proportions rather than shouted through its presence. This restraint, paradoxically, has proven to be its greatest strength. In an era where high-end sports watches have become increasingly bold and oversized, the Laureato's measured elegance feels both refreshingly modern and timelessly sophisticated.

To truly understand the Laureato's significance, one must consider it within the broader context of Girard-Perregaux's history. Founded in 1791, the manufacture has consistently pioneered both technical innovations and design excellence. From the Three Bridges Tourbillon of 1867 to the Constant Escapement of 2013, Girard-Perregaux has pushed the boundaries of what's possible in mechanical watchmaking.

The Laureato represents the synthesis of this heritage—a watch that combines technical innovation with distinctive design, all executed with the exacting standards of a true manufacture. Every component, from the case to the movement, is conceived, developed, and produced in-house in La Chaux-de-Fonds.

The Laureato's story begins at a pivotal moment in watchmaking history. In 1975, as the Swiss watch industry grappled with the quartz crisis, Girard-Perregaux took an unconventional approach. Rather than resist the technological tide, the manufacture embraced it, launching the Laureato with a chronometer-certified quartz movement developed entirely in-house.

This wasn't mere capitulation to market forces—it was a demonstration of Girard-Perregaux's pioneering spirit. The brand had opened its Research and Development department in 1966 specifically to explore quartz technology. By 1971, they had developed the GP350 calibre with a frequency of 32,768 Hz, which would become the universal standard for the industry. By 1977, an astounding 83% of quartz-related patents registered with COSC came from Girard-Perregaux.

The Laureato emerged from this technological mastery, but its true genius lay in marrying cutting-edge movement technology with a design that would prove timeless. The octagonal bezel set on a circular base, the tonneau-shaped case, and the integrated bracelet created a visual language that was simultaneously bold and refined—a departure from both traditional dress watches and the more angular sports watches of the era.

What set the Laureato apart from its contemporaries was its commitment to fluidity and architectural balance. Where others embraced bold angles and visible screws, the Laureato favored precision, balance, and understated elegance. The watch's visual DNA can be traced back to Girard-Perregaux's own heritage, particularly the 14-sided bezel of the 1969 Deep Diver. This design continuity speaks to the manufacture's holistic approach to watchmaking, where every element—form, structure, and aesthetics—is conceived, developed, and crafted in-house.

The integrated bracelet, a hallmark of high-end sports watches, was executed with particular finesse in the Laureato. The distinctive 'H' links create a tapering effect that ensures optimal comfort while maintaining visual coherence with the case design. The interplay of brushed and polished surfaces creates a sophisticated dialogue with light, enhancing the watch's presence without resorting to ostentation.

Following the initial quartz models, Girard-Perregaux began introducing mechanical movements to the Laureato line in the early 1980s. This transition marked an important evolution, demonstrating that the design could accommodate both cutting-edge quartz technology and traditional mechanical excellence.

The first automatic Laureatos maintained the essential design codes while introducing subtle refinements. Case sizes varied to accommodate different movements and market preferences, but the core aesthetic—the octagonal bezel, integrated bracelet, and refined finishing—remained constant.

The 2000s and 2010s saw a renewed focus on the Laureato as Girard-Perregaux recognised the enduring appeal of integrated bracelet sports watches. The collection was refined and expanded, with new sizes, materials, and complications that spoke to contemporary tastes while respecting the original design.

This period saw the introduction of more diverse dial colours, the use of precious metals beyond the traditional steel, and the incorporation of manufacture movements that showcased Girard-Perregaux's technical capabilities. The modern Laureato Classic line exemplifies this evolution, with models like the 38 mm Ref. 81005-11S3320-1CM featuring a sophisticated silver-toned dial with hobnail pattern and the refined simplicity that made the original so compelling. The 42 mm Ref. 81010-11-431-11A presents the collection in a larger, more contemporary size while maintaining perfect proportions, its blue dial adding a modern touch to the timeless design.

The Laureato Skeleton series represents a natural evolution of the collection, offering a fascinating glimpse into Girard-Perregaux's technical mastery. By opening up the dial, these models showcase the intricate dance of gears, springs, and bridges that power the watch. The skeletonisation is executed with characteristic restraint—enough to reveal the mechanical poetry within, but not so much as to compromise legibility or structural integrity.

These models often feature the Manufacture's proprietary movements, with architectural bridges and careful finishing that turn the movement into a three-dimensional sculpture. The interplay between the geometric case design and the organic forms of the skeletonized movement creates a compelling visual tension.

The Laureato Absolute Light & Shade Ref. 81015-52-002-52A demonstrates this perfectly, with its titanium case and skeletonised architecture providing a modern, lightweight foundation for the openworked GP01800 automatic movement. For those seeking even more drama, Ref. 81071-43-2022-1CX combines a ceramic case with rose gold accents, creating a striking contrast that highlights the architectural beauty of the skeletonized caliber.

As the collection matured, Girard-Perregaux introduced chronograph variants that demonstrated how the Laureato could accommodate complications without sacrificing its essential character. Available in various sizes and materials, these models integrated the chronograph function seamlessly into the Laureato design language.

The pushers were carefully integrated into the case profile, maintaining the sleek silhouette that defines the collection. Dial layouts varied from traditional bi-compax to tri-compax configurations, always with careful attention to balance and legibility. These chronographs served those who appreciated both the sporting heritage of the complication and the refined execution that Girard-Perregaux brings to every watch.

Modern iterations like Ref. 81020-52-432-BB4A combine a pink gold case with a sophisticated blue dial, offering a lavish take on the sports chronograph, while Ref. 81020-11-131-11A presents the complication in classic steel with a clean silver dial, proving that the Laureato chronograph can be both technically impressive and elegantly understated.

The Laureato Absolute represents the collection's most contemporary and bold interpretation. These recent models push the boundaries of materials and design while maintaining the fundamental Laureato aesthetic. Featuring cases in materials like titanium and carbon, often with striking colour accents, the Absolute line appeals to those seeking a more avant-garde expression of the Laureato philosophy.

This collection includes various complications and sizes, from time-only models to chronographs, all characterized by their modern materials and bold aesthetic choices. The use of rubber straps alongside integrated bracelets adds versatility and a contemporary edge to these pieces.

The Laureato Absolute 8Tech Ref. 81060-41-3222-1CX takes boldness to new heights with its carbon and titanium composite case construction and eye-catching design elements that speaks to the younger generation of collectors and enthusiasts without abandoning the core identity of the Laureato. As for the Laureato Absolute Chronograph Ref. 81060-21-491-FH6A, it showcases the collection's technical prowess with its 44 mm titanium case and its highly-distinctive blue accents on the dial, the pushers, and the strap.

The collaboration between Girard-Perregaux and Aston Martin represents a natural alliance between two manufacturers that share a commitment to performance, elegance, and craftsmanship. The Laureato models created for this partnership incorporate design elements inspired by Aston Martin's automotive heritage while maintaining the watch's distinctive character.

These special collaboration editions often feature unique dial treatments, materials drawn from automotive applications, and subtle design nods to Aston Martin's iconic vehicles. Whether its showcased in the form of the Absoloute, the Chronograph, or even the Skeleton, the partnership extends beyond mere co-branding. It represents a genuine exchange of design philosophy and technical expertise between two brands at the pinnacle of their respective fields.

To commemorate the collection's golden jubilee in 2025, Girard-Perregaux has unveiled the Laureato FIFTY, a special edition creation that serves as both a tribute to the original and a statement of contemporary watchmaking excellence. The anniversary model combines steel with 3N yellow gold, echoing the first bicolour version from 1975 while incorporating modern refinements. The 39mm case has been subtly reworked with sharper angles and more pronounced bevels, demonstrating how the design can evolve without losing its essential character.

Perhaps most significantly, the Laureato FIFTY introduces the new GP4800 automatic movement. This calibre represents a historic milestone for Girard-Perregaux as the first "simple" movement (hours/minutes/seconds/date) whose construction draws inspiration from the brand's iconic Three Bridges architecture. With its silicon escapement, variable inertia balance, and no fewer than 10 different finishing techniques, the GP4800 embodies over 230 years of manufacture expertise.

The dial, featuring a sunray grey finish with a Clous de Paris pattern, exemplifies the attention to detail that defines haute horlogerie. The date disc matches the dial color, the hands and indices are crafted in 3N gold, and the central seconds hand features the distinctive double-arrow GP emblem as a counterweight.

As the Laureato enters its sixth decade, it does so from a position of strength. The collection has proven its ability to evolve with the times while maintaining its core identity. From the quartz pioneering of the 1970s to today's advanced automatic movements, from steel sports watches to haute horlogerie complications, the Laureato has demonstrated remarkable versatility.

The introduction of the GP4800 movement in the anniversary model signals Girard-Perregaux's continued commitment to innovation. By extending the Three Bridges architecture beyond the tourbillon for the first time, the manufacture is writing a new chapter in its technical story while honoring its heritage.

The Laureato's 50-year journey is more than a success story—it's a masterclass in how to create and nurture an icon. In an industry often torn between heritage and innovation, the Laureato demonstrates that the two can coexist harmoniously. It remains what it was always intended to be: a watch that makes a statement through precision rather than ostentation, that values refinement over excess, and that proves true refinement lies in the perfection of every detail.