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MB&F SP One Introduces a New Chapter in Contemporary Watchmaking
Latest Releases
29 May 2025 · 6 min read

What if MB&F, renowned for its dynamic three-dimensional creations, chose instead to focus inward? What if it pursued elegance over exuberance, subtlety over spectacle? The answer lies in the SP One—a creation that reshapes expectations and introduces a new lexicon of balance, proportion, and considered restraint within the MB&F narrative. After years of introducing avant-garde creations that have disrupted the artisanal watchmaking industry, the SP One is the Maison's first-ever time-only watch.


The SP One was born not from external demands, but from a moment of introspection. During the global uncertainty of 2020, MB&F chose to revisit a collection of unfinished projects—a “basket of dreams” filled with concepts that, at the time, felt too ambitious or too abstract. It was a season of recalibration. Rather than capitalising on momentum, the brand returned to its roots: curiosity, risk-taking, and the pursuit of the unexpected.


From this archive emerged a sketch dated 2018. At first glance, it resembled a smiley face—three circles suspended within a case, simple yet enigmatic. These shapes would become the foundation of the SP One: a barrel, a balance wheel, and an inclined dial, each given visual prominence, as though levitating in space. It was an idea that resisted categorisation, prompting the launch of a new “Special Projects” line—distinct from the Horological and Legacy Machines, yet clearly related.

Case Design & Materials
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Curved surfaces and seamless sapphire create a form that feels as fluid as it looks

At 38 mm in diameter, the SP One represents the most compact offering from MB&F to date. Its proportions, however, belie its depth. The case design draws inspiration from natural forms—reminiscent of a river-polished pebble, rounded and tactile. Constructed in either 950 platinum or 18K rose gold, the case avoids conventional bezels, opting instead for a seamless integration of sapphire crystals on both the front and back.


The lugs, polished by hand, are not affixed directly to the upper caseband. Instead, they rise gently from the lower section, creating a perceptible yet subtle gap. This decision enhances the sense of separation and contributes to the watch’s ethereal visual language—an object that appears to hover rather than sit.

Dial Design
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Its placement and inclination reveal a deeper dialogue between visual balance and functional purpose

The SP One’s dial is not only inclined—it is also a study in creativity and precision. Positioned at 6 o’clock, the black DLC-coated disc is angled just enough to reveal its function without disrupting the balance of the composition. Its inclination is achieved using conical gearing, a rarely employed technique in modern horology that requires great mechanical finesse.


A surrounding amphitheatre-style flange—rendered in either sky-blue or anthracite depending on the edition—frames the core components, guiding the eye gently inward. The visual symmetry of the three elements, each with identical circumferences, enhances the impression of structured weightlessness.

Movement Design
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Form follows function through a movement shaped by equilibrium rather than excess

While the SP One’s exterior offers calm and simplicity, its interior is an exercise in technical sophistication. MB&F’s in-house calibre, developed specifically for this project, positions the mainspring barrel, balance wheel, and inclined dial as the architectural pillars of the movement. All supporting components are discretely tucked away, allowing these three to command full attention.


The manual-winding calibre provides a 72-hour power reserve and operates at a frequency of 2.5 Hz. Sapphire crystal on both sides ensures a full view of the structure, while the near-invisible bridges and carefully hidden screws allow the elements to appear suspended. Finishing remains artisanal: each wheel is hand-bevelled, surfaces transition between satin, polished and micro-blasted textures, and chatons are prominently featured.

Bracelet/Strap Design
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A soft-grained calfskin strap grounds the SP One in comfort and everyday versatility

In keeping with the refined character of the watch, the SP One is paired with a hand-stitched calfskin strap. This understated choice complements the case without drawing attention away from its intricate form. A matching pin buckle—crafted in either white gold or rose gold—completes the presentation with quiet assurance.

MB&F at The Hour Glass


The MB&F SP One will be available at The Hour Glass. To learn more or enquire about its availability, visit The Hour Glass boutiques or contact us directly.

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