Only Watch 2023: The Artisanal Offerings That Have Caught Our Eye – Part 1

Only Watch returns for its 10^th edition in 2023. One of the most anticipated events in the horological calendar, the lots on offer this year once again showcase horological beauty, savoir-faire, creativity, and originality. Take a look at some of the artisanal creations that will go under the hammer on 5 November in Geneva.

Continue reading Part 2 here.

F.P.Journe Chronomètre Furtif

FPJourne Only Watch 2023 Dial Side

FPJourne Only Watch 2023 Movement Side

F.P.Journe reveals a new watch that only shows itself to its owner. The Chronomètre Furtif takes its name from the difficulty of reading the time if the watch is not facing you, as the blue enamel dial reveals the frosted numerals only in the reflection of light. With the moon phase and power reserve indications integrated into the movement and visible only on the back, its indications can be enjoyed only by its owner.

More about François-Paul Journe on The Persistence of Memory

For the first time in the world, the F.P.Journe Chronomètre Furtif comes in a complete Tantalum case and flat-link bracelet with sand-blasting and polished chamfers. The new exclusive hand-wound Calibre 1522 in 18K rose gold boasts a power reserve of 56 hours, with a perfectly symmetrical movement design that incorporates the moon phase indications visible on the back.

Moser x MB&F Streamliner Pandamonium

A DJ master set imbued with the DNA of both brands: discover the Streamliner Pandamonium. This unique Performance Art piece features MB&F, hosted by H. Moser & Cie.

H. Moser MBandF OnlyWatch Streamliner Pandamonium 3D

H. Moser X MBandF Streamliner Panda Workshops 1 Hres

When Maximilian Büsser and Edouard Meylan pool their creativity, it makes a lot of noise! Respectively at the head of MB&F and H. Moser & Cie., these two passionate entrepreneurs never do things by halves. On the strength of their previous collaboration, which enjoyed a resounding success, Maximilian and Edouard wanted to repeat the experience, this time for the benefit of the fight against Duchenne muscular dystrophy conducted by Only Watch. For this sophomore collaboration, just as in 2020, the two brands’ universes are being mixed to create something truly unprecedented. For the duration of a unique and exceptional piece, featuring a one-off movement developed exclusively for this occasion, MB&F and H. Moser & Cie. synchronise their beats to the same tempo and invite the public to an artistic performance led by a miniature panda DJ. Those familiar with Only Watch will remember appearances of a panda character in previous Only Watch pieces by MB&F.

URWERK Time-Space Blade

URWERK embarks on a new groundbreaking journey, redefining the very essence of time through a fresh and captivating approach, where Science-Fiction and Time telling meet in a glowing magic. Let the digits of light guide you through the Spacetime continuum, as this remarkable glass column illuminates not only the hours, minutes, and seconds but also kilometers depicting our smooth Earth travel. Encapsulated into the glass by the talented Dalibor Farny, this extraordinary creation blends artistry and precision, inviting you to venture into a world where time becomes a luminous journey.

Learn about Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei on The Persistence of Memory

De Bethune DW5 Seeking Perfect

This unique De Bethune watch comes from the depths of time, its dial and spherical moon made of ferrous meteorite created in the crucible of the universe. Denis Flageollet created this mass of iron and steel from iron ore harvested at L’Auberson. He roasted it, crushed it into powder, reduced it through the glowing charcoal of his low furnace to obtain a mass of metal, then forged it into a compact material close to the shape to be machined. The operation took several weeks to complete, and the research took many months.

For this unique timepiece, the De Bethune team created a tourbillon movement that can be admired on the back of the watch. The Calibre DB2149 with 356 components and 25 jewels measures in at 30mm in diameter. The movement features several De Bethune’s innovations and patents, including a self-regulating double barrel that ensures a power reserve of 4 days, a titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts optimised for temperature changes and air penetration, and a spherical moon phase indication precise to 1 lunar day every 1112 years.

A QR code engraved on the back of the piece gives its future owner access to unique information about the watch. The winning bidder will also have a special opportunity to visit the De Bethune Manufacture in Sainte-Croix and going for a forge tour with Denis Flageollet.

Voutilainen CSW Only Watch

Presenting the Voutilainen CSW, featuring a fully integrated world timer mechanism. The new elegant cushion shape case is inspired from the pocket watch which was made by Kari and Venla in 2019 to ONLY WATCH. Made from titanium with light satin finish and polished surfaces, the case dimensions are adjusted for its wristwatch form. Short, curved lugs ensure the comfort when worn.

Voutilainen Only Watch 2023 Dial

Voutilainen Only Watch 2023 Movement

The fully integrated world timer mechanism is easy to use; by pressing the crown direction to case band, the time zone adjusts by one hour. The sparkling green dial is made from solid silver and is engine turned by hand.

Find out more about Kari Voutilainen on The Persistence of Memory

Inside the watch is a completely new caliber, an evolution from previous Vingt-8 caliber. It retains the overall design and philosophy of the Vingt-8 caliber, with its in-house manufactured large balance wheel and direct impulse double escapement. Its thickness remains unchanged, but the new construction allows additional circular discs for the new mechanism within the same volume, backed by a power reserve of 60 hours.

LEDERER Central Impulse Chronometer Only Watch 2023

In 2020, the very discreet Bernhard Lederer was again propelled to the forefront of the watchmaking scene when he unveiled a movement of rare ingenuity. Based on the foundations first laid by Breguet, then expanded by George Daniels, it was the culmination of extensive work on the heart of the mechanical watch: its escapement.  The échappement naturel (or Natural Escapement) first proposed by Breguet, would be realized in a pocket watch by George Daniels, a century and a half later. Building on these principles, Lederer conceived a new movement that could fit inside a wristwatch, with a symmetrical geometry forcing the two escapement wheels to interact in such a way that delivers optimum chronometric operation and precision under everyday conditions. The invention lines up aligns the escapement’s impulses, giving the watch its name: Central Impulse Chronometer.

The Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer took the Innovations Prize at the 2021 GPHG. Here, Bernhard Lederer unveils a one-off, ‘dial-less’ version in a profoundly redesigned aesthetic, exposing the movement and bringing it to life with a zest of color.

Follow The Hour Glass’s coverage of Only Watch 2023. For the full details on Only Watch 2023, visit the website.