Five years ago, Grand Seiko did something unexpected. They introduced the Evolution 9 collection, a comprehensive design philosophy that would fundamentally reshape how their watches looked, felt, and worn. Its design elements were compiled into a new code featuring three guiding principles at its foundation: the evolution of aesthetics and legibility, which Grand Seiko has sought over many years, together with enhanced wearing comfort.

Since 2020, this bold new direction has gradually transformed Grand Seiko's entire collection, from elegant dress watches to robust sport models, each iteration refining and expanding what these nine principles could achieve. The recently released SLGC007 chronograph during Watches and Wonders 2025 represents the latest chapter in this ongoing evolution. However, to truly understand its significance, we must first examine how the style of the Evolution 9 has redefined Grand Seiko's approach to watchmaking and craftsmanship.

Evolution 9 wasn't merely a new collection—it was a manifesto. Built upon nine fundamental design principles, this philosophy would guide Grand Seiko into its next era while honouring six decades of watchmaking excellence. Each principle serves a distinct purpose: the flat dial and sapphire crystal optimise clarity, faceted hour markers catch light from multiple angles, and grooved hand surfaces ensure instant readability regardless of lighting conditions.

These elements work together to create watches that are immediately recognisable yet feel entirely new and fresh. The philosophy emerged from Grand Seiko's conviction that true magnificence comes through relentless refinement—not revolution, but evolution in its purest form.

Grand Seiko's story began in 1960 with an audacious goal: create the world's best practical watch. When the first Grand Seiko emerged from the Suwa Seikosha factory, it set accuracy standards that challenged Swiss dominance and established Japan as a serious player in high watchmaking.

READ MORE: The History of the Grand Seiko 9R Spring Drive

The following decades saw breakthrough after breakthrough. Hi-Beat movements in the 1960s pushed mechanical precision to new limits. The 1980s brought revolutionary quartz technology that redefined accuracy itself. Then came the Spring Drive in 1999, a movement that merged mechanical and electronic watchmaking in ways previously thought impossible. Each innovation built upon the last, creating a foundation of excellence that would ultimately embody the Evolution 9 style.

The SLGC007 embodies everything the Evolution 9 collection stands for. At its heart beats the Calibre 9SC5, a Hi-Beat 36,000 chronograph movement operating at 10 beats per second. This exceptional frequency doesn't just ensure precision; it allows the chronograph seconds hand to sweep around the dial with mesmerising fluidity. The movement features a vertical clutch and column wheel system, providing precise chronograph operation with minimal wear over time.

Crafted in high-intensity titanium, the case measures 43.2 mm in diameter, yet weighs approximately 30 per cent less than a comparable steel watch. This lightweight construction, combined with Evolution 9's carefully calculated low centre of gravity, ensures exceptional wearing comfort despite the watch's sophisticated mechanics. The titanium receives a special bright polish with a lustrous finish typically reserved for stainless steel, showcasing Grand Seiko's mastery over this challenging material.

The silver-toned dial features a subtle sunray pattern that shifts from bright silver to deep grey depending on the viewing angle. Three chronograph registers—30-minute counter at 3 o'clock, 12-hour counter at 6 o'clock, and running seconds at 9 o'clock—are recessed and finished with concentric circles that add visual depth. The power reserve indicator, discreetly positioned between 7 and 8 o'clock, displays the movement's impressive 80-hour autonomy. Grand Seiko has thoughtfully placed the date aperture between 4 and 5 o'clock, preserving the symmetry of the hour indices while maintaining excellent legibility across all functions.

Water resistant to 100 meters and equipped with a screw-down crown, the SLGC007 combines high watchmaking refinement with real-world durability. The sapphire crystal features a multi-layer anti-reflective coating on the inner surface, ensuring perfect legibility while maintaining the Evolution 9 principle of a distortion-free flat surface. Even the titanium bracelet showcases meticulous attention to detail, with alternating brushed and polished surfaces that echo the case finishing. It is secured by a three-fold clasp with push-button release and fine adjustment system.

No discussion of Grand Seiko is complete without acknowledging Zaratsu polishing, the technique that has become the brand's signature. Adapted from traditional katana sword polishing, this method creates distortion-free surfaces that are so perfect they seem impossible. On the Evolution 9 collection of watches, Zaratsu polishing reaches new heights.

The SLGC007's case alternates between mirror-polished surfaces and hairline finishing, creating dynamic contrasts that shift with movement. This interplay of textures embodies the Japanese principle of finding profound beauty in subtle details—a philosophy that permeates every aspect of Grand Seiko's craft.

What makes the Evolution 9 collection remarkable is how it balances cutting-edge technology with time-honoured techniques. The SLGC007's movement incorporates MEMS (Micro-Electro-Mechanical Systems) technology to produce components with unprecedented precision. Yet these high-tech parts are assembled by Grand Seiko’s Takumi, master watchmakers who use methods passed down through generations.

This fusion extends throughout the Evolution 9 collection. Whether examining a time-only dress watch or a sophisticated chronograph, each piece speaks the same design language while maintaining its character.

Evolution 9 marks Grand Seiko's confident stride onto the world stage. These watches don't whisper their quality—they declare it through impeccable execution and distinctive design. Yet they do so without ostentation, embodying "kanso"—the Japanese aesthetic of simplicity revealing complexity.

The SLGC007 continues to exemplify this approach. At first glance, it appears almost understated for a high-end chronograph. Look closer, and layers of detail emerge: the way light dances across the dial, how the pushers align perfectly with the case profile, the subtle transition between finishing techniques. Each discovery rewards careful observation, creating an intimate relationship between watch and wearer.