GENEVA WATCH DAYS 2025: FIELD WATCHES, DIVE ICONS, AND PERPETUAL CALENDARS TAKE CENTRE STAGE

Geneva Watch Days 2025 continues to showcase exceptional new releases from established Swiss watchmakers, demonstrating the industry's commitment to innovation whilst honouring traditional craftsmanship. This year's presentations reveal a fascinating spectrum of horological approaches, from tool watches designed for specific professional applications to haute horlogerie complications that push the boundaries of mechanical watchmaking.

Some of the latest offerings are carried under the Watches of Switzerland banner, where collectors and enthusiasts can explore compelling new interpretations of classic designs. From field watches with innovative power reserve displays to professional dive instruments refined for modern wrists, or even accessible perpetual calendars to vintage-inspired aviation chronographs, these new models demonstrate the diversity and vitality of Swiss mechanical watchmaking. Here's a comprehensive look at the newest models from Frederique Constant, Hamilton, and DOXA.

Frederique Constant continues to demonstrate its mastery of high watchmaking complications with three new variations of its Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture. The Geneva-based manufacturer introduces two steel-cased models with blue or silvered dials, alongside an 18k yellow gold case with an onyx black dial.

All three models house the FC-776 Manufacture calibre, which represents a significant evolution from its predecessor. The movement delivers an impressive 72-hour power reserve, nearly doubling the 38 hours offered by the earlier FC-775 calibre, whilst maintaining Frederique Constant's commitment to accessible pricing for perpetual calendar complications.

The perpetual calendar mechanism handles all the irregularities of the Gregorian calendar, including leap years, without manual adjustment until the year 2100. What sets this implementation apart is its user-friendly adjustment system: moonphase, date, day, month, and leap year functions are all set via dedicated push buttons recessed in the case frame, eliminating the need for additional tools.

The 40 mm case places these watches firmly in collector-friendly territory, whilst the clear dial layout ensures excellent legibility. Separate displays for day, date, and month are complemented by a moonphase at 6 o'clock, with the leap year indicator positioned at 12 o'clock alongside the month hand. Each dial features either a sunray finish (on the steel models) or jet-black onyx (on the gold variant), with appliqué hour markers and hand-polished hands completing the refined aesthetic.

Frederique Constant expands its Classics Première collection with two new models that mark a significant evolution for the line. For the first time, these watches feature integrated steel bracelets, offering a more contemporary, urban character whilst maintaining the collection's vintage-inspired design codes.

Both new models sport dials in the season's most coveted colours—blue and salmon pink—each finished with a sophisticated two-tier construction. The central section features a delicate grained matte texture, whilst the raised outer hour circle displays a circular sunray finish that catches and diffuses light across the dial.

The design draws from multiple eras of watchmaking heritage: Arabic numerals in a distinctly twentieth-century font, "pomme" hands popularised in the mid-eighteenth century, and "railtrack" minute circles reminiscent of 1920s Art Deco sector dials. This thoughtful combination creates a watch that feels both timeless and contemporary.

The new five-link steel bracelet demonstrates Frederique Constant's attention to finishing, with three mirror-polished central links flanked by brushed outer links. The 38.5 mm case maintains its compact, versatile proportions suitable for both men and women, whilst the entirely mirror-polished case matches the finishing of the hands and hour markers.

Powering both variations is the FC-301 automatic calibre, developed from a highly-regarded La Joux-Perret base. This Swiss-made movement delivers 68 hours of power reserve and can be admired through the sapphire caseback, reinforcing the watches' mechanical pedigree.

Hamilton has added an intriguing new member to its iconic Khaki Field family with the introduction of the Khaki Field Mechanical Power Reserve. This 40 mm field watch features a distinctive power reserve indicator positioned to the right of the 9 o'clock numeral, displaying the remaining energy with a gauge that reads from F(ull) to E(mpty).

The watch is powered by the new manually-wound H-23 calibre, developed by ETA specifically for Hamilton. This movement delivers 80 hours of power reserve and features a slipping spring mechanism similar to automatic calibres, allowing the wearer to continue winding even when the barrel is full. According to Hamilton, this design choice helps the power reserve indicator resynchronise if the watch experiences a shock.

Available in both black and white dial variations, the watch maintains the classic Khaki Field aesthetic with old radium-coloured Super-LumiNova on the hands and printed hour indices. The bead-blasted steel case measures 11.95 mm thick, making it noticeably more substantial than the standard manually-wound Khaki Field models.

Hamilton has expanded its aviation heritage collection with several new Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer models, drawing inspiration from military pilot watches of the past.

The 38 mm automatic versions feature vintage-inspired Cathedral hands and come with either maroon or green bezels paired with off-white dials. These compact watches, measuring 11.4 mm thick, are powered by the automatic H-10 movement offering 80 hours of power reserve. The design pays homage to the Hamilton Model 23 pocket watches used by U.S. Army Air Force navigators.

For those preferring larger proportions and distinctive materials, Hamilton offers a 43 mm bronze-cased version with a black bezel. This model features a hand-wound movement visible through the display caseback and offers 46 hours of power reserve. The bronze case brings a distinctive character to this aviation watch, as the material will naturally patinate over time, creating a unique finish for each owner. At 6 o'clock, the running seconds subdial serves both practical and aesthetic purposes.

DOXA has unveiled a comprehensive update to its SUB 750T, marking the first major revision since the model's introduction in 2002. The new iteration maintains the watch's professional diving credentials whilst introducing a more refined silhouette that addresses contemporary preferences.

The updated SUB 750T will be available across DOXA's complete palette of eight signature colourways—Professional Orange, Sharkhunter Black, Whitepearl White, Searambler Silver Grey, Caribbean Navy Blue, Divingstar Yellow, Aquamarine Turquoise, and Sea Emerald Dark Green—each variant offers the choice between the iconic "beads of rice" stainless steel bracelet or a colour-matched rubber strap.

The watch maintains all the essential diving features that define the SUB collection. The patented unidirectional rotating bezel enables calculation and tracking of no-decompression dive times, whilst Super-LumiNova coating on all functional elements ensures optimal legibility underwater. Water resistance remains rated at 750 metres (2,460 feet), confirming the SUB 750T's status as a genuine professional diving instrument.

Inside, the watch features a Swiss-made automatic movement finished with DOXA decorations, beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and delivering approximately 56 hours of power reserve. The angular case design with sharp chamfers and screw-down crown at 3 o'clock creates an assertive presence that honours the model's tool watch heritage.