DE BETHUNE REACHES FOR THE STARS WITH TWO EXTRAORDINARY COMPLICATIONS

The pursuit of horological excellence takes many forms. For some Manufactures, it manifests in technical prowess alone; for others, in aesthetic refinement. De Bethune, the independent Swiss watchmaker founded by Denis Flageollet and David Zanetta, has consistently demonstrated that these need not be separate endeavours. Rather, the maison views them as inseparable elements of a singular vision, one where complications serve beauty, and beauty enhances function.

This philosophy finds its most recent expression in two remarkably different yet equally captivating creations: the DB25 Perpetual Sky and the DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT. Each represents a distinct facet of De Bethune's creative identity, yet both share an underlying commitment to pushing the boundaries of what independent watchmaking can achieve. What follows is an exploration of two watches that illustrate why this manufacture continues to command the attention and admiration of collectors who seek something beyond the conventional.

The DB25 Perpetual Sky represents a masterful exercise in miniaturisation without compromise. Housed within a 40 mm case—a dimension carefully considered for more slender wrists—this watch delivers the full complexity of a perpetual calendar whilst maintaining the aesthetic codes and technical innovations that define De Bethune's identity. The resizing was no simple matter of reduction; rather, it demanded a complete structural overhaul to preserve the legibility, comfort, and performance that collectors have come to expect from the manufacture.

The case itself is crafted from Grade 5 titanium, its slim profile enhanced by the signature slanted, hollowed-out lugs that ensure exceptional comfort on the wrist. This thoughtful ergonomics belies the mechanical sophistication within.

Against the backdrop of the Milky Way and the starry sky, the perpetual calendar unfolds in layers of refined complexity. The multi-level architecture features ring-shaped appliqués circling the subdials, complemented by a silver-toned minutes track. The date is positioned at 6 o'clock, whilst day and month apertures occupy the 9 and 3 o'clock positions respectively. Time is indicated with manually finished, mirror-polished curved yellow gold hands that sweep across this celestial canvas with both accuracy and elegance.

At 12 o'clock sits one of De Bethune's most celebrated innovations: a palladium and blued steel sphere that displays the moon phases as they appear in the sky; a patented complication from 2004 that continues to captivate. Below, a gold disc indicates the leap-year cycle, completing the calendar's comprehensive display.

For several years, the starry sky and Milky Way have become integral to De Bethune's visual language. Each dial is personalised according to a specific geographical location and date, transforming the flat-polished blued titanium surface into a deeply personal artefact. The process it took to create the dial proved to be painstakingly meticulous.

After delicate polishing and bluing operations using a thermal oxidation process exclusive to the Manufacture, artisans set each white gold pin into micro-perforations of various sizes. It's because of this that brings the poetic depiction of the night sky to life. From there, the Milky Way emerges through laser-beam micro-milling and the handcrafted application of 24-carat gold leaf, a technique that demands exceptional patience and skill.

Beating at the heart of the DB25 Perpetual Sky is the DB2005V3 hand-wound calibre, entirely developed in De Bethune's workshops in L'Auberson. This movement benefits from decades of research and technological advancement, incorporating a perpetual calendar, a spherical moon phase indicator with precision corresponding to a one-day deviation in 122 years, a self-regulating double barrel, and a titanium/white gold balance wheel. Further innovations include a "De Bethune" balance-spring with flat terminal curve, a silicon escape-wheel, and a triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system.

More than 330 components are designed, crafted, and decorated by hand before being assembled by a Grand Complication watchmaker in the Haute Horlogerie workshop. A sapphire caseback reveals the meticulous attention devoted to finishing, with innovations and patented solutions continuously refined by the Technical Office to optimise reliability and performance.

With the DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT, De Bethune explores the fascinating concept of the double-sided watch, a horological tradition spanning over two centuries. Appearing during the Age of Enlightenment and inspired by astronomy, decorative arts, and mechanical engineering, such watches were designed to display a greater number of functions, from multifaceted tower and table clocks during the Renaissance to pocket watches and even iconic models such as the Leroy 01 from 1900. De Bethune's contemporary interpretation brings this heritage into the present day with extraordinary technical sophistication.

The genius of the Kind of Two Jumping GMT lies in its ability to tell two stories on two dials with its dual-time display, all powered by a single movement. This entirely reversible model can be worn on either side, depending on the wearer's mood or chosen time zone. As Denis Flageollet explains: "Designing a watch that tells two stories—on two dials and with dual-time display revealed by one smooth move—was one of the most stimulating challenges of the Kind of Two Jumping GMT, making duality its creative principle."

The technical complexity of this achievement cannot be overstated. True to the spirit of the Maison, the apparent simplicity and elegance of this watch conceal a mechanism imbued with rare sophistication, designed to offer a GMT function that is both simple and intuitive. A sophisticated system of gears and pinions ensures that the hands continue to rotate clockwise, regardless of which side is chosen; a feat of engineering that required innovative thinking and meticulous execution.

The 43 mm case in polished Grade 5 titanium is equipped with floating lugs specially designed for the DB Kind of Two. This system enables the watch to be positioned perfectly on the wrist and to adapt to its movements, whilst also providing easy access to the two dials with a smooth, accurate swivel. Consisting of 42 components made from stainless materials such as surgical steel and titanium, this ingenious and reliable micro-mechanism can withstand external aggressions including water, humidity, temperature variations, and continuous contact with the skin.

Despite its complex design, this model is remarkably user-friendly. The functions are arranged into a double front/back display for the hours and minutes. Using the crown in position 3, the collector sets their reference time—known as home time—indicated by the hours and minutes hands on the contemporary side. The second time zone is set by pulling the crown to the second position on the classical GMT side. This intuitive approach ensures that technical sophistication never compromises practical usability.

The front dial showcases the sophisticated mechanism with home-time display centred on the balance wheel at 6 o'clock, with the minutes scale around the rim. Meticulous work involving layered polished and domed shapes, as well as microlight, shotpeened, and snailed finishes, reveals the extraordinary care devoted to the decoration of this calibre. Despite the limited space, the watch radiates depth and volume, incorporating both GMT and jumping-second complications, notably presented by two central gold wheels.

A centrally positioned deltoid-shaped titanium bridge crafted on several levels contributes to overall stability and harmony. The hours and minutes markers, along with mirror-polished blued steel hands featuring satin-brushed steel central inlays, add touches of blue and subtle light effects that ensure perfect legibility.

The reverse side presents a traditionally inspired aesthetic with a domed anthracite dial and guilloché centre, providing an understated reading of the time. Manually polished curved 5N gold hands exquisitely match the gilded hour-markers, whilst a polished titanium indicator elegantly marks the mechanical seconds jump. This side offers a complete departure from the contemporary face, creating a watch of two distinct personalities.

Both the DB25 Perpetual Sky and the DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT exemplify De Bethune's unwavering commitment to technical excellence, artistic vision, and artisanal craftsmanship. These are not merely instruments for measuring time but rather wearable expressions of horological art, each piece representing countless hours of human skill and dedication.

The DB25 Perpetual Sky, with its celestial dial and comprehensive perpetual calendar, speaks to those who appreciate the romance of astronomical complications and the poetry of starlit skies. The DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT, with its reversible case and dual personalities, appeals to collectors who value both versatility and mechanical ingenuity. Together, they demonstrate the breadth of De Bethune's creative vision, one that encompasses both the contemplative and the practical, the classical and the avant-garde.

The manufacture's approach—producing watches at the pace dictated by the workshops rather than by market demands—ensures that each creation maintains the exceptional standard that has become synonymous with the De Bethune name. This philosophy of quality over quantity, of artisanship over industrialisation, resonates deeply with collectors who appreciate the profound difference between a watch that is made and one that is crafted with soul and intention.