Modern Men’s Icons from Cartier

Specialist Picks • 12 Jun 2019

Modern Men’s Icons from Cartier


The Santos Dumont is proving to be one of this year’s most popular new releases from Cartier. But who’s behind the name and what other watches has the Maison unveiled recently. We take a look below…

The Man Behind The Name

Although having created ladies wristwatches since the late 1800s, Cartier didn’t turn to men’s wrist watches until 1904. At the time, the Brazilian aviation pioneer, Alberto Santos-Dumont, resided in Paris and was a close friend of Louis Cartier. While pocket watches still reigned supreme, they were not practical to use for Santos-Dumont, when flying.

To solve this problem Cartier created for him the Santos Dumont and so the very first wristwatch for men was born. Originally it was available in gold and platinum. By today’s standards, it was a very elegant watch, with its rounded shape and blued Breguet hands. It also set forward two things that would become a Cartier hallmark: the Roman numerals, as well as the railroad track, indicating the minutes.

The Wall-Street Watch

Fast forward to the 80s. After decades of societal and geopolitical upheaval, Cartier had emerged as a truly global player on the luxury jewellery and watchmaking scene. Whilst symbolic of the glitz that the 80s came to represent, the Santos (introduced in 1978) didn’t represent the excess many remember that decade for. Its design and construction were measured. Becoming an instant success, with its distinct design and unique stainless steel bracelet with screws.

It became the watch for successful people, and a full gold version of the Santos was also on the wrist of Michael Douglas, when he played Gordon Gekko in the cult-movie “Wallstreet”. Although available in stainless steel and full gold, the Santos was especially good looking in steel/gold. This combination of metals highlighted the unique bezel and bracelet design of the Santos.

An Enduring Legacy

Over the past century many, often quite different, models by Cartier have been inspired by and named after Santos-Dumont. The current bearer of it was launched in 2004, and quite a dramatic departure from its predecessors. Cartier distilled the Santos de Cartier design to its bare essence. The watch features no bezel, no screws, just that iconic case shape, which was now made not only larger but also thinner. The whole watch is also slightly curved, sapphire crystal included, which makes it very comfortable to wear.

Initially, it was launched as a time-only version, fitted with a slim manual wind movement. This model was available in various precious metals, some even with a diamond setting. Because the watch is relatively large, it offers plenty of space for complications, and that is why the collection was later joined by a Santos de Cartier with a large date aperture and a power reserve indicator.

In 2011 Cartier launched the Santos de Cartier Skeleton, which followed in the footsteps of the Santos 100 skeleton. Both models share the same manual wind calibre 9611 MC, which Cartier designed from the beginning as a skeleton movement. This allowed for composition, in which the top bridge of the movement is shaped like the Roman numerals, which in combination with the Santos de Cartier case gives a very industrial look.

SIHH 2018 – An Update to a Classic

A new chapter was added to the legend of the Santos at the 2018 SIHH when Cartier released an all-new version of the watch. Its most prominent style element is the revised bezel, which now extends to the lugs of the watch. Unique is that Cartier now offers this watch with both, a strap, as well as a bracelet, highlighting the two important eras’ in the history of this model. They can easily be changed by the owner, without the use of tools, as they are fitted with Cartier’s new, patent pending, Quick-Switch system. The new Santos de Cartier comes in two sizes, a medium (35.1mm x 41.9mm) and large (39.8mm x 47.5mm) size, with an all steel, all gold (yellow or pink) or two-tone (yellow gold and steel) case. Both are fitted with an automatic manufacture calibre, yet only the large version features a date, placed at six o’clock.

2019 onwards

Following on from the success of the Santos de Cartier, the Maison launched the Cartier Santos Dumont at SIHH 2019.

In a move that sees Cartier focus more at an entry-level price point, the new Cartier Santos-Dumont is a strong statement from the brand. The design has been updated with a bezel that is more visually self-contained, the return of the steeply domed cabochon crown, and a slightly elongated effect to the classic Cartier numerals that give a sense of thoughtful precision.

Wrapping Up

From the widely approachable Santos Dumont to the clean balance of the Santos de Cartier Chronograph, this latest collection has an appeal to both collectors and those getting into Cartier for the first time. The variety on offer means there is something for everyone, as even those who find Cartier’s traditional aesthetic, not to their tastes. If you have been considering Cartier for a little while but haven’t yet pulled the trigger, the release of this new collection is the perfect opportunity to wear a watch steeped in both horological and aviation history.

Tags: cartier


We’re here to help


Loading Consult A Specialist Form

Change Country

Select your country:

Share

Share via:

To find out more about our available positions, please visit our Careers page.