Cartier continues to delve into its archives for inspiration, with its newest creations tapping into much-loved classics and retell its heritage in a contemporary way.
Cartier Privé Tank Normale
The very first Tank created by Cartier in 1917 had a very simple concept: two parallel shafts creating four lines, the strap seamlessly integrated into the case. Roman numerals for the hours, a railway track minute counter, blued hands, a winding crown set with a cabochon, and of course, the secret signature: these formed the design cues would come to define the Tank collection as we know it today.
This year, Cartier revisits the Tank Normale in its Privé collection, presenting four modern interpretations that pay tribute to its roots. The time only version takes its proportions and bevelled sapphire crystal from the original Tank Normale. The new Cartier Privé Tank Normale comes in yellow gold with a brown alligator strap and in platinum with a black alligator strap. And in a first for the Cartier Privé collection, it is also available with a matching yellow gold or platinum bracelet, with contrasting satin and polished finishes in a clear nod to the 1970s. The case and bracelet appear as one with their satin finishes, with the continuity juxtaposed against the polished finish, highlighting the outlines of the brancards and the edges of the case.
To this iconic shape in the Maison’s watchmaking history, Cartier adds one of its signature complications with a skeleton movement. The 24-hour time display doubles as a day-night indication, with daytime hours appearing on the upper part of the dial, and the night-time hours taking up the lower part. The skeletonised bridges are coated with a gradation of shades, and the dial marked by a skeletonised sun and crescent moon, to further symbolise the transition.
Launched in 1989, the Tank Américaine drew its inspiration from the Tank Cintrée watch, from which it borrowed its curved case, and introduced the first adjustable strap partnered with the famous folding buckle, for which Cartier filed a patent in 1910.
This year, the latest iterations of the Tank Américain reinterpret the original design of the watch and its curved shape by carving a finer, more acrobatic line. The purity of its form is further reinforced by the style of the dial and the flawless integration of the brancards into the extension of the strap. Equipped with the new 1899 MC movement for slimmer cases, the Tank Américaine watch comes in all-gold and steel with a leather strap, rose gold and diamonds with a leather strap or diamond-paved white and yellow gold with a metal bracelet. Designed especially for the Tank Américaine, its links feature polished facets that catch and radiate light. Available in three sizes: mini, small, and large.
The spirit of Alberto Santos-Dumont continues to live on in the latest iterations of Cartier’s Santos-Dumont watches. Staying true to the elegance of the original 1904 model, the legacy lives on.
This new Santos-Dumont retains the visible screws and beaded crown with blue cabochon, and features a skeleton movement powered by the new 9629 automatic calibre. Every structural detail pays tribute to the aviator. The miniaturised functional oscillating weight is in the shape of a replica of the Demoiselle, the trailblazing plane designed by Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1907. The symbol is made all the more powerful as it seems to soar over a globe. Taking over two years to develop, the new micro-rotor calibre comprises of 212 components, and made in rose gold and steel. The Santos-Dumont skeleton watch takes sophistication one step further with its limited edition in yellow gold and navy lacquer: all the details, the bezel and case are lacquered, including the skeleton bridges onto which the lacquer is applied delicately by hand.
This is joined by three new Santos-Dumont watches in platinum, rose gold and yellow gold that elevate their dial with Roman numerals cut directly in jasper, jade and dumortierite: three colours that match the cabochon on the winding crown of the watch. Finely worked, these delicate Roman numerals are enhanced by the depth and rays of the dial’s guilloché effect. Equipped with a 430 MC manual winding mechanical movement, this limited edition is an original reinterpretation of a Cartier icon.
Since its creation in 1912, the Baignoire watch has seen multiple incarnations. This year, Cartier explores the hallmark oval form with a change of scale and function. In a new alignment of proportions, the curved case and bezel have been transposed to be slipped as close to the wrist as possible, giving birth to a new hybrid that is a watch and a piece of jewellery at the same time.
Available in rose gold, yellow gold, or fully paved with diamonds, the new Baignoire celebrates the purity of line, accuracy of shape, precise proportions, and precious details – the fundamentals of Cartier’s culture of design. This is also available on a black varnished leather strap for a more couture look.