Breguet Type XX Collection Makes a Strong Comeback

Breguet brings a new momentum, a new generation, and an all-new calibre in the new Type XX. This new generation of the iconic pilot chronograph takes cues from the emblematic first-generation models instilled in a contemporary, dynamic, and technological spirit.

A Military Heritage

The original Type XX in the 1950s when Breguet, by then a company already specialising in products dedicated to the aviation industry, learned that the French Air Force was seeking to equip its pilots with a chronograph wristwatch meeting certain technical specifications: a black dial with luminescent numerals, luminescent hands, a high-quality movement resistant to changes in pressure and acceleration, a rotating bezel, and most importantly, a “flyback” function.

Breguet’s watch met the stringent requirements on accuracy, legibility, and reliability, and was one of several companies that won the contracts. This meant the brand would produce the product, named “Type XX” by the French Air Ministry, and could also sell the same watches to private customers.

Two Contemporary Renditions

Drawing inspiration from the aviation world, with design elements reminiscent of cockpit instruments, the Type XX collection feature bold dials with clear Arabic numeral hour markers, large hands, and subdials for timing functions.

Today, the latest iterations come in two forms. The Type 20 Chronographe 2057 is inspired by the 1100 watches that were delivered to the French Air Force in the latter half of the 1950s. The name is a direct tribute to these timekeepers, whose name appeared as Type 20, unlike all others where the name is written as Type XX in Roman numerals.

The watch remains faithful to the original Type 20 identity, but with a modernised black dial. The Arabic numerals, hands, and the triangle on the bezel are painted in a luminescent mint green. For legibility, the 30-minute totalizer at 3 o’clock is slightly larger than the 60-second totalizer at 9 o’clock, and a date window added between 4 and 5 o’clock.  As was that of the models delivered to military air forces in the past, the 42mm steel case is fitted with a non-engraved fluted bidirectional bezel.

Meanwhile, the Type XX Chronographe 2067 descends from the civilian types offered in the 1950s to 1960s. Retaining a black dial, the display has a 15-minute totalizer and 12-hour totalizer at 3 and 6 o’clock respectively, and a running seconds at 9 o’clock. The numerals, hands, and triangle on the bezel are coated with an ivory-coloured luminescent treatment. To finish, the 42mm steel case is fitted with a fluted bidirectional graduated bezel.

On this occasion, Breguet has developed the new Calibre 7281 (without small seconds) and Calibre 728 (with small seconds) to power the Type 20 and Type XX respectively. Both have a column wheel, vertical clutch chronograph construction with a flyback function and date display. The two movements are fitted with a silicon balance spring, escape wheel and pallet lever, reducing sensitivities to magnetic fields and offering greater resistance to corrosion and wear. Both movements are self-winding and boast a 60-hour power reserve.

Discover Breguet’s latest Type XX collection at The Hour Glass.