The Swiss manufacture De Bethune continues to chart its own course through the rarefied world of high watchmaking, where technical innovation and artistic expression converge in perfect harmony. Known for pushing the boundaries of traditional watchmaking whilst maintaining an unmistakable aesthetic identity, the independent brand has once again demonstrated why it remains at the forefront of contemporary horology.

At Geneva Watch Days 2025, De Bethune presented two new and exceptional creations that exemplify the Manufacture's philosophy: the DB25xs Starry Varius and the DB28xs Kind of Blue Tourbillon. Each represents a distinct facet of the brand's creative vision—one capturing the drama of Earth's volcanic forces beneath a celestial canopy, the other exploring the infinite possibilities of blue through mechanical excellence.

De Bethune has reimagined its iconic DB25 collection with the spectacular DB25xs Starry Varius, unveiled at Geneva Watch Days 2025. This latest interpretation showcases the Manufacture's extraordinary expertise in combining artistic vision with technical innovation, presenting a dial that captures the dramatic beauty of volcanic phenomena.

The centrepiece of this remarkable watch is its dial, which De Bethune has transformed into a canvas depicting Earth's volcanic activity. Through an innovative thermal oxidation process unique to the Manufacture, the natural titanium has been treated to achieve a warm, intense tone that evokes the nocturnal spectacle of flowing lava. This volcanic effervescence serves as the perfect backdrop for the watch's celestial display.

Master craftsmen in De Bethune's L'Auberson workshops have elevated the art of dial decoration to new heights with the DB25xs Starry Varius. Each mirror-polished titanium dial is meticulously hand-decorated with white gold pins of varying micro-perforations set individually to create a stunning representation of the starry sky. The application of 24-carat gold leaf using laser-beam micro-milling produces a Milky Way motif that appears to flow across the dial, personalising each creation according to specific geographical location and date.

At 40 mm, the DB25xs Starry Varius represents a thoughtful evolution of the collection that began at 44 mm and was subsequently refined to 42 mm in 2018. This latest iteration required complete aesthetic rebalancing to maintain the design's refinement whilst adapting to the more contemporary dimensions. As Denis Flageollet notes, preserving the "aura of the Starry Varius" was paramount in this scaling process.

The case design exemplifies De Bethune's commitment to wearing comfort, featuring sloping geometry with subtly openworked lugs adorned with ogives. These design elements emphasise the watch's rounded character whilst ensuring exceptional comfort on the wrist. The display is enhanced by delicately hand-polished rose gold hands that glide over matching hour markers set on a silver ring.

Powering this celestial masterpiece is the DB2005 calibre, which incorporates De Bethune's latest technological advances. The movement features a balance-spring with a flat terminal curve, a silicon escape-wheel, and a shock-absorbing system, alongside the Manufacture's renowned titanium and white gold balance-wheel. These innovations work in concert to adapt to contemporary conditions, withstanding magnetic fields, shocks, and accelerations whilst achieving superior timekeeping precision and reliability.

De Bethune's celebration of blue—the brand's signature colour deeply embedded in its DNA—reaches new artistic heights with the DB28xs Kind of Blue Tourbillon. This 39 mm creation pushes the boundaries of both creativity and technical expertise, offering a modern exploration of the brand's distinctive blue aesthetic.

The Manufacture's exclusive bluing process, refined through years of research and development, produces a natural hue achieved purely through thermal oxidation. Steel and titanium components are treated to reveal shades that only natural light can perfect. This blue-themed exercise showcases the expertise acquired by De Bethune's artisans, who employ the guilloché technique with fine, regular patterns to create depth and subtle accentuation throughout the dial's contemporary architecture.

The tourbillon mechanism represents De Bethune's innovative approach to this classical complication. Unlike the spectacular kinematics of scaled-down interpretations by Abraham-Louis Breguet, De Bethune has developed a system that prioritises functionality. Mathematical recalculation ensures optimal timekeeping whilst protection against regular shocks is achieved through a lightweight system with high rotational speed and frequency, all while maintaining a high-inertia balance wheel.

The engineers at L'Auberson have created an ultra-light and refined titanium tourbillon frame comprising 63 components and weighing just 0.18 grams; making it one of the lightest tourbillons ever produced at less than 0.0001 g per component. This technical marvel enables a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour with a rotation every 30 seconds, whilst maintaining a five-day power reserve.

Crafted entirely from delicately polished and blued grade 5 titanium, the DB28xs Kind of Blue Tourbillon exemplifies De Bethune's commitment to both innovation and comfort. The 39 mm case, equipped with the patented system of floating lugs, adapts perfectly to wrist size and movements. This careful exterior design, complemented by an extra-supple double-lined alligator leather strap and titanium buckle, contributes to the exceptional wearing experience of this watch.

Both new releases demonstrate De Bethune's continuing evolution in 21st-century watchmaking, where constant refinement of craft, development through modification, and imperceptible but necessary improvements push the boundaries of mechanics with precision, reliability, and finesse.