BVLGARI SHOWCASES ITS HOROLOGICAL MASTERY

At this year's Geneva Watch Days, Bvlgari presents an impressive showcase that spans both technical innovation and artistic collaboration. The Roman Maison brings together a retrospective exhibition of its groundbreaking Octo Finissimo collection alongside striking new releases that push the boundaries of ultra-thin watchmaking and material innovation.

For the first time, Bvlgari presents a comprehensive retrospective tracing the evolution of the Octo Finissimo from its 2014 debut to its current status as a record-breaking icon. The exhibition offers visitors an educational journey through what has become one of the most technically ambitious collections in contemporary watchmaking.

Since its introduction just over a decade ago, the Octo Finissimo has set an astonishing ten world records in ultra-thin watchmaking. Each milestone represents not merely a technical achievement but a complete reimagining of traditional horological complications through the lens of extreme thinness.

The exhibition showcases pivotal references including the 2014 Octo Finissimo Tourbillon with its ultra-slim BVL 268 calibre measuring just 1.95 mm, the 2017 Octo Finissimo Automatic at 5.15 mm thick, and the prestigious Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar in titanium, which claimed the Aiguille d'Or at the 2021 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève whilst maintaining a thickness of only 5.80 mm.

This collaboration with Korean-born, Japan-based artist Lee Ufan represents the latest chapter in Bvlgari's ongoing dialogue between watchmaking and contemporary art. The design draws inspiration from one of Lee Ufan's signature artistic themes: the juxtaposition of a rock (representing the static and limited) with the endless reflections of a mirror.

This philosophical concept translates beautifully to the watch, where a mirrored dial is delicately accented with black hands, creating a striking visual dialogue. The titanium case amplifies rather than contains the mirrored dial, resulting in a watch that questions the boundaries between finite and infinite.

Each creation features a titanium case and bracelet finished by hand with a unique surface treatment, making every watch truly one-of-a-kind. The watch houses the BVL 138 manufacture calibre with micro-rotor, maintaining the collection's commitment to ultra-thin construction at just 2.23 mm thick, for an overall height of only 5.5 mm. Lee Ufan's handwritten signature on the caseback marks this intimate object as a true work of art.

Following the introduction of a green "Verde Alpi" marble version earlier in the year, Bvlgari now presents a new Octo Finissimo Tourbillon featuring a deep blue marble dial. This release showcases the Maison's mastery over one of the most challenging materials in watchmaking.

Working with marble presents unique technical challenges. Whilst strong in its raw form, marble becomes delicate and brittle when sliced to the extreme thinness required for a watch dial. The successful integration of this classically Roman material into the ultra-thin Octo Finissimo case represents a significant achievement in both technical prowess and aesthetic refinement.

The blue marble dial, sourced from the finest Italian quarries, is housed in a platinum case measuring just 4.85 mm thick and 40 mm in diameter. Inside beats the hand-wound BVL 268 calibre, offering a 52-hour power reserve whilst maintaining the movement's remarkable 1.95 mm profile. This combination of Italian artistry and Swiss mechanical excellence creates a watch that is both technically impressive and emotionally resonant.

For the first time in its history, Bvlgari introduces bronze to its Aluminium collection, creating an entirely new line that reimagines this sport-chic icon through the lens of evolving materials.

The Bvlgari Aluminium, reintroduced in 2020 with an automatic mechanical movement, has long been celebrated for its bold combination of aluminium and rubber. The addition of bronze brings a new dimension to this unconventional pairing. Bronze's natural patina development means each watch will evolve uniquely over time, creating a personal narrative on the wearer's wrist.

The GMT variant offers a distinctive interpretation of the dual-time complication. The 40 mm sandblasted bronze case contrasts dramatically with the black rubber bezel, while the black dial features rose gold-plated, sandblasted hands for enhanced legibility. At its centre, a lacquered 24-hour GMT disc in black provides intuitive second time zone reading.

Powered by the automatic calibre B192 with a 50-hour power reserve, the watch measures 9.70 mm thick. The sandblasted surfaces emphasise both texture and technical precision, while the bracelet continues the dialogue between bronze links and black rubber.

The Chronograph model brings sporting sophistication to the bronze collection. Housed in a 41 mm sandblasted bronze case, the watch features a matte black dial with azuré circular chronograph counters and a tachymeter scale. Rose gold-plated hands provide striking contrast against both the warm bronze case and the deep black dial.

The automatic calibre B381 powers this chronograph, offering a 42-hour power reserve within a case measuring 12.35 mm thick. Like its GMT sibling, the Chronograph features a bracelet that alternates between sandblasted bronze links and black rubber, secured with a hook and loop system.

Geneva Watch Days 2025 sees Bvlgari demonstrating its unique position in contemporary watchmaking. The brand successfully balances technical innovation with artistic expression, pushing the boundaries of what's possible in ultra-thin watchmaking whilst maintaining strong connections to its Roman heritage and design DNA.

From the philosophical depths of the Lee Ufan collaboration to the material mastery of marble dials and the evolutionary step of bronze integration, each release tells a story of creative ambition matched by technical expertise. The comprehensive Octo Finissimo exhibition provides context for these achievements, illustrating how a decade of relentless innovation has established Bvlgari as a leader in contemporary haute horlogerie.

As these new releases demonstrate, Bvlgari continues to view its watches not merely as instruments of time, but as platforms for broader cultural dialogue and technical advancement. Whether through artistic collaboration, material innovation, or mechanical achievement, the Maison remains committed to redefining the possibilities of contemporary watchmaking.