New Watch! • 09 Sep 2024
De Bethune Resizes Two DB28 Models in an XS Frame
As an independent Swiss watchmaker, De Bethune has turned itself into a household name in just a little over two decades. Founded in 2002 by master watchmaker Denis Flageollet, he ensured that De Bethune would fully embody the deep-rooted philosophy of combining classic watchmaking skill and craftsmanship with a contemporary technical process. This was evident in De Bethune’s latest release: the DB28xs Steel Wheels as well as the DB28xs Aérolite.
The DB28 is already seen as one of De Bethune’s most iconic creations after it won the GPHG Aiguille d’Or award in 2011. With over 10 variations of the DB28, its two latest additions to the collection will only be the second time De Bethune has introduced miniaturised versions of its latest creations. Both the DB28xs Steel Wheels and Aérolite will be housed in a slightly smaller design, keeping in line with the other two models: the DB28xs Starry Skies and DB28xs Purple Rain.
DB28xs Steel Wheels
The DB28 Steel Wheels has always been a popular choice among collectors and enthusiasts alike as some notable versions include the DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon as well as the DB28 Steel Wheels Blue. For its latest iteration, De Bethune has decided to go down a slightly different path and brought the art of miniaturisation to the DB28. Instead of the usual 43 mm case, the new DB28xs Steel Wheels will be housed in a smaller 39 mm.
De Bethune essentially created an entirely new watch that preserves all the architectural and technical richness of its predecessor, but also adapted it to fit into a more intimate size. At face value, the instantly recognisable openworked dial remains the same, down to the same grade 5 titanium case. While smaller, it’s still equally sophisticated while enhancing the harmonious blend of hemispherical, concave, and spherical shapes.
Stirring within the DB28xs Steel Wheels lies the manually wound De Bethune DB2115V13 calibre, which rests directly below the openworked dial for all to revere. The movement is meticulously refined with its titanium balance wheel with grey gold weights to ensure perfect inertia and regulation. Couple it with the De Bethune balance spring with its uniquely flat terminal curve, the DB28xs Steel Wheels guarantees unparalleled precision to go with a six-day power reserve.
With its reduced size, the DB28xs Steel Wheels offers exceptional comfort on the wrist, which is also down to how the watch was designed. The crown rests at 12 o’clock while the patented floating lugs are also made of grade 5 titanium, which allows it to naturally adapt to wrist movements. On the case back, you will also find the screwed and polished grade 5 titanium that will showcase both the reserve power indicator with a microlight decoration.
DB28xs Aérolite
The watch has also been miniaturised in a smaller 39 mm zirconium case and on the dial, you will find a random guilloché pattern that is harmoniously contrasted by the perfect geometric lines of the Muonionalusta meteorite. The hands of the dial are polished pink-gold to match the Arabic numerals on the anthracite hours ring.
Aside from having anthracite zirconium on the case, it can also be found on the patented floating lugs of the watch to provide greater comfort. Sapphire crystal glass with 1,800 vickers of hardness can be found on both the front and back of the watch with a double-reflective coating. The case back also features a flat, polished steel barrel bridge guard alongside the titanium plate guard with a microlight decoration.
Hidden within the 39 mm case resides the miniaturised hand-wound DB2005 mechanical calibre. It houses De Bethune patented innovations like the self-regulating twin barrel to go the titanium balance wheel with gold inserts, a triple para-chute shock-absorbing system, and a balance spring with a flat terminal curve. All of the parts within the DB28xs Aérolite feature hand-crafted finishings and decorations while having a power reserve of six days as well.
To keep the entire watch together, it comes with an extra-supple alligator leather strap that features the animal’s lining and black textile for greater comfort.
Want to discover more about De Bethune? Check out its catalogue page to find out more about the DB28 collection and more about the independent Swiss watchmaker.