In 2019, NOMOS Glashütte ventured into uncharted territory with a slew of new sporty releases. Ready for any shock, splash or stride, the Tangente and Club models received an update which thrilled both owners and admirers of the Glashütte born timepieces. As the Northern Hemisphere continues to freeze, life outdoors seems less like a distant memory. NOMOS has duly set out to allow you to keep your timepieces on your wrist year round, whether you be on your morning run, midday workout or afternoon swim in freezing Germany or perpetually sunny Singapore.
The German watchmakers are renowned for their pared back, thoroughly design conscious aesthetic. Innovation within the confines of refined simplicity is not an easy task: bold changes in design could very easily scupper the reputation for considered restraint which the company has built since its inception. Quite simply, the bold step of introducing sports versions of important models could have very easily failed. Except when it comes to the new Tangente Sport and Club Sport models, they just work. Of course you should expect nothing less from the NOMOS design team (read part 1 and part 2 of my visit to Berlinerblau).
The three new releases are robust, waterproof and durable. Perhaps the most exciting feature of the watches is their brand new steel bracelet. 145 individual parts combine to make what really is a rather striking statement around the wrist. Somehow the company has managed to instil their ‘form follows function’ philosophy even into the conception of a steel bracelet, making an often under-appreciated component of the watch something of architectural beauty.
NOMOS Glashütte Tangente Sport
The Tangente Sport neomatik 42 Date comes is both a black and a white dial (the Ref. 581 and the Ref. 580 respectively). The white version features sand coloured superluminova hour indexes and a blue inlay in the hour and minute hands which provide a subtle but characteristically playful splash of colour to the look. The black version on the other hand features the reverse, where sand coloured hour and minute hands along with the blue superluminova hour indexes provide a vibrant contrast to the darker tone of the dial (not dissimilar to the dark-toned GPHG-winning Tangente Update). An exciting inclusion on both is the bright red 1000ft inscription at the bottom of the dial – underwater capabilities were first introduced to the NOMOS collection in the Ahoi models in 2013.
Powering the Tangente Sport is the in-house automatic DUW 6101 movement. Despite only being 3.6mm high, the movement provides a power reserve of up to 42 hours and at a diameter of 35.2mm, the date ring is in fact integrated around the movement itself. The extra-large date window at three o’clock is a clever addition to the iconic model. For a sports watch, the Tangente is confident and, on a metal bracelet, is just ever so slightly a deviation from typical NOMOS – but a much sought after deviant at that. It is practical and purposeful, and it is the choice that fans of the immensely popular Tangente needed.
NOMOS Glashütte Club Sport
At 42mm, the black dial and stainless steel case of the Club Sport neomatik 42 Date Black makes an immediate impression. Polished and pristine, the white galvanised hour indexes and numerals just look so clean against the backdrop of a sleek and dark dial. A coating of superluminova means that the white typography will turn bright blue when the lights are off. Yet for a watch capable of descending to underwater depths up to 1000ft (or 300m), it is certainly no bulky build. It stands apart from its fellow diving compatriots for this very reason. Small touches like the red crown tube to indicate when the crown has not been screwed down properly is a clever and vital inclusion which proves that this watch can be taken seriously.
Just like the Tangente Sport models, the Club Sport ticks along to the DUW 6101 automatic movement. The sapphire crystal back will of course allow you to admire the impressive in-house innovation while it works.
Robust durability is a welcomed innovation from the Glashütte company. Mind you, let us not forget that it was the Bauhaus modus operandi to design ‘useful, durable, economical and beautiful everyday objects’ – the sturdy, water-proof constitution of the Tangente Sport and Club Sport releases espouses a core principle of the German design movement which to this day, acts as a major inspiration to the Nomos aesthetic identity. Rightly making waves within the watch world, these new models are running ahead at great speed.