Best of Both: De Bethune Presents DB28XP Kind of Blue

New Watch! • 31 Aug 2023

Best of Both: De Bethune Presents DB28XP Kind of Blue

For Geneva Watch Days 2023, De Bethune unveils the new DB28XP Kind of Blue, the latest addition to its iconic DB25 collection. This latest creation unites the proven elegance of the DB28XP and the timeless charm of the DB28 Kind of Blue in one exceptional piece that marries tradition with innovation.

A Natural Evolution

The DB28XP Kind of Blue is the natural evolution of two iconic models from De Bethune: the DB28XP and the DB28 Kind of Blue. It embodies the best of both worlds by combining the sleek design and refinement of the DB28XP with a completely blue look, inspired by the DB28 Kind of Blue and bearing the Manufacture’s signature.

The dial, entirely made of Microlight, reimagines and modernizes traditional guilloché technique that often features on classic watches. On its expansive flat surface, this technique gains new meaning and enhances the dial structure through the interplay of shadow and light. The added depth and architectural dynamism create its contemporary look. Crafted from blued titanium, the watch reveals an architectural fusion of space, time, and light. Its deep and luminous blue from the natural oxidation of the material, and makes each watch a unique work of art.

Ultra-Thin Mechanics

De Bethune opened a chapter in the world of ultra-thin watches in 2020 with the launch of the DB28XP, celebrating ten years of mechanical and aesthetic research and work. In his pursuit of an ultra-thin timepiece, Denis Flageollet envisioned it as both a technical and aesthetic challenge—the complexity of slimness, an adventure that demands precision and harmony between design and constraints.

The watch is powered by the manual-winding movement DB2115v12, which is equipped with the De Bethune balance wheel, visible through the dial thanks to its opening at 6 o’clock. It is the result of De Bethune’s constant physical and mathematical approach to improve its operation. It benefits from the latest advancements, made of titanium and fitted with small gray gold weights placed externally, providing it with remarkable inertia, reliability, and regulating quality.

Equipped with the renowned De Bethune hairspring, the heart of this mechanical watch is designed to keep its center of gravity precisely in its place using a flat curve fixed on the outside of the hairspring. Variations in the thickness of the blade contribute to nearly perfect concentric development. The reduced height, improved adjustment of concentricity quality, finer balance wheel adjustment, eliminates the need for pins, and the curved shape even acts as a shock absorber in case of impact.

Equally visible and geometrically positioned relative to the caliber’s mainplate, the assembly is protected by the exclusive triple shock-absorbing system. De Bethune was not only the first to design a bridge held from both sides in a symmetrical manner, which keeps the balance wheel perfectly in place, but also to add two shock absorbers at each end, in addition to the balance wheel’s own shock absorber, hence the name ‘triple shock absorber’. Its springs are mounted on perfectly polished axes, effectively absorbs and dampens violent impacts.

Through these various tried and continually developing enhancements, De Bethune has increased the power reserve efficiency by +20%, bringing it to a total of 6 days, visible through the sapphire glass case back.

Utmost Comfort

The DB28XP Kind of Blue features a lightweight case, entirely crafted from polished blue-tinged grade 5 titanium with a microlight caseband, mounted on a patented De Bethune system of mobile cradles that adapt to the size and various movements of the wrist, with the more curved caseband following the wrist’s lines. The Microlight finish of the mainplate is echoed on the sides, extending to the outer edge of the caseband, a meticulous and challenging task to achieve in the absence of simple geometric elements. The ensemble is completed with an alligator strap with a titanium buckle, contributing to the practical and comfortable wear of this timepiece.

The De Bethune DB28XP Kind of Blue is a limited edition of 25 watches. Discover our collection of De Bethune watches at The Hour Glass.

Tags: artisanal watchmaking de bethune denis flageollet geneva watch days 2023 independent watchmaking

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