Collector’s Guides • 05 Nov 2018
Out From The Shadows: The Omega DeVille Trésor
When we speak about Omega, we often get caught up on popular models like the Speedmaster. This is fair enough as they are beautiful pieces, but the lesser-talked about DeVille collection is worthy of a lot more face time than it currently gets. A great example of this is the Omega Trésor. Initially released in 1949, it was a simple, clean-cut timepiece with a 30 mm movement that was meant to embody craftsmanship and class without too many bells and whistles. The updated models, released in 2014, are a little more adventurous but still maintain the original aesthetic that would be expected from a 1940s-1950s dress watch.
The DeVille line was established in 1967, and while it takes cues from the sophistication of the Trésor, it gave the brand a chance to widen the field to sportier models as well as dress watches. Classic design has always been the lynchpin for the line, coupled with first-rate movements making for an elegant set of timepieces. When it was first introduced the DeVille line was part of Omega’s Seamaster series. Fast forward to 1999, and the line became the first to feature a co-axial calibre. This focus on technological advancements would be something Omega put great emphasis on moving forward, at time to their detriment, but we’ll get to that.
In 2007, the De Ville line extended to include the DeVille Hour Vision, a complex piece with scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. There’s a lot to choose from within the current DeVille lineup, making it an appealing proposition for a wide audience.
Dressed to Impress
The most apparent change to the revamped Trésor is the size; now at 40mm, you can choose from yellow gold, white gold, or the brand unique Sedna gold. The dial impresses in opaline, with a domed shape and a guilloché motif known as a Clou de Paris. Arguably the most beautiful feature of the piece which is a bolder design statement than the original that still maintains class.
These subtle changes feel like a modernized take on the 1949 original, a gentle balance of the watches history with the demands of current trends which Omega have executed perfectly. The date aperture sits at 6 o’clock, which is regularly debated for pros or cons but in this case suits the design and offers another subtle touch of originality, an unexpected flip on the classic style that inspires this piece. Coupled with a honeycomb texture, the Trésor is a pleasure to view.
With a manually wound Master Co-Axial Caliber 8511 there is provision for a time zone function with a COSC-certified chronometer movement in the mix as well. The power reserve will last around 60 hours and the high-quality you would expect from Omega also means there is an 18k rose gold balance bridge and the Omega-standard three-level co-axial escapement.
Polished and open the caseback almost looks futuristic accented with small purple rivets. Imprinted with the information about the pieces anti-magnetic greater than 15,000 gauss feature as well as the water resistance depth (30M), it upholds the clean simplicity of the entire design. This presents the juxtaposition that is the new Trésor, modern, technical inner workings with a vintage design.
For the Ladies
This year, an update to the Trésor collection for the ladies substantially rivals the male model. Including a wave-shaped row of diamonds either side of the bezel. The stand-out feature, however, is the large Roman numerals which dominate the face, slim enough to look more like a pattern rather than time markers. The Omega logos make up a flower-shaped crown in red liquid ceramic surrounding a single diamond for a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it touch of class that is finer detailed design through and through.
The caseback is mirrored to save the need to carry one for makeup with another florally inspired imprint running in large fashion all over the entire case similar to the idea behind the numbers on the face. The female sizing options runa touch smaller, either 36mm or 39mm, still significant for a ladies watch, but the extra space allows the many design elements to refrain from seeming cluttered.
The Omega DeVille Trésor
So, sure, Speedmasters exist, but the De Ville Trésor is another piece from Omega that is seriously worth your time and consideration. There are a black or brown leather strap options, both which feature a polished 18k gold buckle. Everything about this piece screams pure elegance and class and is precisely what you need peeking out from under your suit sleeve.
The Omega DeVille Prestige
Another hidden gem of the Omega DeVille series is the Prestige, crafted initially in 1960 as part of the Seamaster series. The modern version of which features a 36.8-mm case in steel, yellow or rose gold housing the automatic Omega Caliber 2500.It has a two-zoned dial that comes in a range of colour options and Roman numerals at each quarter-hour. The band is a chain-link that pays homage to other vintage Omega models.
Out from the Shadows
Omega has used the DeVille lines to reclaim their once illustrious spot as luxury watch Kings. The 1970s Japanese quartz watch sensation spelt trouble for mechanical movements, and Omega being technologically minded followed suit.
This trend attracted a lower price tag, and Omegas prestige fell. As the Quartz revolution faded as quickly as it came and collectors went back to quality craftsmanship, Omega were left out in the cold. Enter the Deville. The Co-Axial escapement helped the brand maintain their technological push while re-confirming their quality, and the rise back to the top began. These revolutionary calibers, mixed with some celebrity brand ambassadors (e.g., Sean Connery) and the beautiful designs of the DeVille line and Omega are right back where they deserve to be.