Guide to Old Town Geneva

Hitting the Cobblestone Streets

The Romantic poets searched for poetic truth in sublime natural landscapes. The idea of the sublime put words to the sensation of being in awe of a landscape’s beauty, as well as being afraid of it. They found this feeling carved out for them by the dramatic ravines, ancient glaciers and soaring mountains of the Swiss Alps, and it is this feeling that keeps travellers coming back year after year. That and the cheese fondue!

In comparison to the dramatic natural poetry of the Swiss Alps, one would expect that visiting Geneva, the city cradled by the Alps, would be rather dim.

However, like the Romantic poet William Blake’s corresponding Songs of Innocence and Songs of Experience, these two unique places in our world feed into each other. Where the Alps are virginally stark and wild, Geneva is a bustling, cobblestoned hub of human endeavour, which manages a balance between a strong Swiss identity and a decidedly international outlook.

Vieille Ville

Surprisingly, the cosmopolitan, experienced sense of community that defines Geneva can be found not just in the halls of the United Nations Headquarters there, or in its numerous architectural standouts, but rather where it all began: its Old Town.

For the discerning traveller and horologist, Geneva’s Old Town, or Vieille Ville, presents a unique opportunity to delve into the city’s history. The many galleries, museums, cafes and restaurants nestled within the Old Town’s warren of cobblestoned streets and squares all have many stories to tell, and it is a pleasure to discover them whilst also creating your own.

Bourg-de-Four Square

Listening to these stories soon uncovers a simple truth about Geneva. Here is a place that, across the ages, has seen a truly multicultural spread of different ideas, religions and rulers. In the very centre of Geneva’s Old Town is Bourg-de-Four Square. Rumoured to be the oldest part of Geneva, Bourg-de-Four originated as a Roman marketplace.

St. Pierre Cathedral – Home of Calvinism

Roman occupation, beginning in the second century B.C., was a strong guiding force in the development of Geneva as a city. It is less well known that the famous St. Pierre Cathedral, which stands sentry over the Old Town, was built on the site of a Roman Temple from the 4^thcentury.

It was here that, over the ruins of religions past, Europe witnessed the birth of Calvinism, with John Calvin preaching in St. Pierre’s in the 16^thcentury. This symbolic heart of the Protestant Reformation lends itself to quiet historical reflection, as well as a gorgeous panoramic view if you choose to climb its 157 steps. St. Pierre is surrounded by equally as historic alleys and passageways and offers a greater perspective into everyday life in the Geneva of both past and present.

Maison Tavel

An ideal spot for garnering an idea of general public life in Geneva is the historical Maison Tavel. Built in the 14^thcentury, the Maison is the oldest private dwelling existing in Geneva, and suitably houses a range of cultural artefacts all about the people of its city.

Old Arsenal

If military history is of particular interest, the Old Arsenal not only contains cannons dating back to the 17^th century but also houses the Geneva State Archives. For a stunning artistic summary of Geneva’s history, be sure to check out the three frescoes by Alexandre Cingria, which line the walls of the Old Arsenal.

Whatever you do, and for whatever purpose you are in Geneva, there is a wealth of cultural history and meaning in the city’s Old Town. Indeed, uncovering its rich array of stories may even lead you to discover a poetic truth about the human condition (but only after you’ve had a few espressos!).