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THE PLACIDE LEGACY: ROGER DUBUIS UNVEILS HOMMAGE "SUKOON AL-LAYL"

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21 Nov 2025 · 8 min read

In the quiet expanse of a desert night, where stars pierce through the darkness and the world holds its breath, there exists a profound tranquillity; a state the Arabic language captures beautifully as "Sukoon Al-Layl." It is precisely this nocturnal serenity that Roger Dubuis has channelled into its latest horological creation, completing the evocative "La Placide" series with a deeply personal tribute to the Maison's founder.


Unveiled during Dubai Watch Week, the Hommage "Sukoon Al-Layl" represents more than technical accomplishment. It is a meditation on character, a celebration of the gentle wisdom that defined Mr Roger Dubuis throughout his extraordinary career. Known affectionately as "Placide" from his youth—a reference to his unflappable calm and kind-hearted nature—the master watchmaker's spirit finds new expression in this singular 38 mm creation.


The name "Sukoon Al-Layl"—translating as "the serenity of night"—creates a poetic bridge between the breathtaking landscapes of the Middle East and the Maison's Swiss origins. This fusion feels particularly apt given the historical connections between Arabic astronomy and European horology. For centuries, scholars across the Islamic world advanced our understanding of celestial mechanics, knowledge that would prove fundamental to the development of precision timekeeping.



A Portrait in Platinum
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The 38 mm platinum case houses a perpetual calendar complication that requires no adjustment until 2100

Crafted entirely in platinum, from case and its crown and down to the buckle, this unique piece captures the silvery luminescence of moonlight across desert dunes. The choice of material speaks volumes: platinum's quiet radiance perfectly embodies the understated elegance that characterised Mr Dubuis himself, whilst its substantial presence on the wrist reminds us that true distinction rarely announces itself loudly.


The dial reveals itself as a masterclass in dimensional complexity. Five distinct layers create a sense of depth that draws the eye inward, much like the infinite expanse of a night sky invites contemplation. The outermost flange, fashioned from mother-of-pearl—a material Mr Dubuis pioneered on men's watches—catches light with subtle iridescence, its polished angles adding brilliant accents against the darker elements beneath.



Waves of Guilloché
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Blue aventurine frames the domed yellow gold moon in a celestial dance across the dial

The main plate tells its own story through guilloché waves, specially revived to echo the ripples of sand shaped by desert winds. Bathed in an "Astral Blue" shade and finished with lacquer, this surface creates a constant interplay of light and shadow, a dynamic quality that speaks to Roger Dubuis's commitment to expressivity. Four Arabic numerals punctuate the dial, a considered nod to Middle Eastern culture and the region's profound contributions to astronomical science and watchmaking heritage.


The calendar segments and counters, also executed in mother-of-pearl with hand-bevelled angles, appear to float above the guilloché base. Each element has been meticulously finished with transferred texts, demonstrating the exacting standards that earned Roger Dubuis the prestigious Poinçon de Genève certification.


At six o'clock, a moonphase display adds poetry to precision. Set against a blue aventurine base, two slightly domed moons in 18-carat yellow gold traverse their cycle. The only elements in this warmer metal throughout the entire watch, serving as a subtle reference to the Maison's earliest perpetual calendars.



The Heart of Perpetuity
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15 decoration techniques transform the movement into a work of mechanical artistry

Beneath this elaborate and intricate facade beats the RD1472 calibre, a movement that beautifully encapsulates Roger Dubuis' philosophy of respecting tradition whilst embracing innovation. This sophisticated mechanism marries an upgraded version of the RD14—the Maison's first in-house automatic movement from 2004—with the RD72 perpetual calendar module, first introduced in 1999.


The revival of these historic calibres represents a remarkable technical achievement. Original and remanufactured components have been brought together, with the Maison completing all restoration work in-house. 50 per cent of the RD72 module's components, including levers, springs, wheels, and pinions, have been meticulously recreated to the original specifications.


Traditional elements abound: swan-neck fine adjustment, pistol-shaped bridges reminiscent of pocket watch construction, and 15 distinct decoration techniques that transform functional components into artworks. The newly created rotor in 18-carat pink gold, visible through the sapphire caseback, oscillates with quiet authority, providing 48 hours of power reserve at 28,800 vibrations per hour.



The Biretrograde Complication
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Guilloché waves meet mother-of-pearl segments in a layered composition of depth and dimension

Mr Dubuis held a particular fondness for the perpetual calendar complication, and the biretrograde display showcased here represents one of horology's more elegant solutions to date indication. Rather than employing conventional subdials, the day and date hands sweep across generous arcs before instantaneously returning to their starting positions.


This system combines day, date, month, leap year indication, and moonphase display in perfect harmony. The perpetual calendar requires no manual adjustment until the year 2100, accounting automatically for months of varying length and leap years; a feat of mechanical memory that speaks to the ingenuity of traditional watchmaking.



Contemporary Expressivity
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The platinum emblem on the buckle was the first-ever logo of the Maison

Presented on an Astral Blue calfskin strap with a rarely seen platinum thread woven through the leather, the Hommage "Sukoon Al-Layl" sits comfortably on the wrist despite its precious metal construction. The triple-folding platinum buckle bears the heritage Roger Dubuis emblem that creates continuity between past and present.


This watch arrives in a dedicated collector's presentation, including a corrector tool for adjusting the calendar indications, a magnifier for appreciating the movement's intricate finishing, and dual certificates attesting to both authenticity and Poinçon de Genève certification. These elements underscore the seriousness with which Roger Dubuis approaches its craft, even as the brand continues to push boundaries in design and materials.

A Moment of Reflection


As the final chapter in the "La Placide" series, this creation captures both the tranquillity of its namesake and the quiet confidence of a Maison secure in its identity. Like the desert night that inspired it, the Hommage "Sukoon Al-Layl" reveals its depths gradually, rewarding patient observation with ever-greater appreciation.


Roger Dubuis has crafted not merely a mechanical object, but a meditation on character, heritage, and the enduring value of gentle wisdom in a world too often enamoured with noise. In doing so, the Maison reminds us that the most profound statements are frequently made in whispers, and that true serenity—whether found in a desert night or in the steady tick of a perfectly adjusted movement—remains one of life's most precious achievements.

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