ELEVATING AN ICON: DANIEL ROTH TOURBILLON PLATINUM

The revival of Daniel Roth enters a new chapter with the Tourbillon Platinum, a watch that honours the brand's storied past whilst embracing a more contemporary aesthetic. Crafted in platinum and finished with an anthracite dial, this latest creation represents both continuity and evolution for a name synonymous with traditional watchmaking and discreet excellence. The Tourbillon Platinum—crafted from the team at Daniel Roth and La Fabrique Du Temps—pays tribute to Mr. Roth's favourite complication with this latest creation.

Throughout horological history, platinum has been reserved for the most exceptional creations. During the first golden age of Daniel Roth, this rare metal appeared selectively, dignifying certain pieces with its extraordinary heft and presence. Until now, it has been absent from the brand's modern renaissance.

The choice of platinum for this iteration is both deliberate and significant. Beyond its rarity—platinum is approximately 30 times rarer than gold—the metal presents itself as a considerable challenge to Manufactures. Machining platinum components requires specialised tooling and more frequent intervention by craftsmen. As a result, a platinum case can take up to three times as long to produce as one in 18-carat gold.

The Tourbillon Platinum pays tribute to the iconic reference 2187/C187 from 1988, faithfully recreating the double-ellipse case that has become foundational to the Daniel Roth aesthetic. Originally conceived by Mr Daniel Roth himself, this distinctive shape combines both square and circular elements while providing the ideal showcase for the prominent tourbillon.

Innovative at its launch, the double-ellipse has proven itself timeless, standing amongst a small handful of contemporary case designs to achieve truly iconic status. Measuring at less than 10 mm thin, the case remains remarkably slim, a testament to the efficiency of the in-house calibre DR001.

All critical details of the original design have been faithfully preserved, yet the case is more than mere replication. The lugs, still meticulously hand-soldered to the case middle, now arch downward to improve ergonomics on the wrist. In a nod to the 1988 original, the longest of the seconds hand's three arms passes through a discreet channel on the inside of the case; a private detail providing continuity from past to present.

The dial represents a departure from previous iterations, introducing an anthracite aesthetic that complements the platinum case. Crafted from solid white gold, the dial base is finished in a sophisticated grey tone that provides the ultimate canvas for Daniel Roth's linear guilloché, applied painstakingly by hand using a straight-line engine.

The chapter ring for hours and minutes is crafted from 925 sterling silver, as are the tri-sectioned seconds scale and the iconic 'moustache' elements on either side bearing the Daniel Roth name and individual watch number. Each component is produced separately, their borders fluted with filet sauté guillochage using a traditional hand-operated rose engine.

The serpentine form of the 'moustache' proved particularly challenging for the guillocheurs, requiring development of a bespoke tool fitted to the rose engine. These techniques naturally limit production and a single dial can take up to three days to complete, line by line, by a single Maître Guillocheur. The smallest mistake at any point necessitates discarding the dial entirely.

All dial components are produced in-house at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, which now maintains a fully equipped guilloché workshop with antique engine-turning machines restored to perfect functionality.

The modern renaissance of Daniel Roth began in 2023 with the introduction of the DR001, a shape movement developed specifically for the brand's signature double-ellipse case. The tourbillon carries special significance for Daniel Roth; during his tenure at Breguet, it was Mr. Roth himself who created that brand's first-ever tourbillon wristwatch. He returned to this complication for the launch of his eponymous brand, being among the first independent watchmakers to accomplish such a feat.

Developed exclusively for Daniel Roth by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini—Master Watchmakers and founders of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton—the DR001 comprises 206 components, each finished by hand. Even parts hidden beneath the dial receive decoration as if on display, with expert craftsmanship revealing itself to the connoisseur's discerning touch during winding and setting.

"As long-time friends of Daniel, we knew his expectations for the DR001 would be high," says Michel Navas. "Both Enrico and myself share his philosophy and passion for tradition and elegance, and were able to leverage the unique savoir-faire of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton to create a tourbillon worthy of the brand's second act."

"Daniel was an inspirational figure for Michel and myself," adds Enrico Barbasini. "It was important to both of us to respect the brand's original emphasis on both architecture and finissage. Daniel was a true pioneer of independent watchmaking, so it wouldn't be enough for us to simply recreate the past. Our vision for Daniel Roth is to remain true to the brand's history whilst elevating the subtle details."

Unlike the Tourbillon Souscription, which featured a solid caseback, the DR001 movement can be admired through a sapphire crystal. This window reveals all the hallmarks of traditional high-end watchmaking: black-polished steel, rounded anglage, perlage, and particularly thin Côtes de Genève that echo the guilloché en ligne dial. The movement is further elevated by three polished gold chatons securing the jewels in the gear train.

Whilst some magnificent details are displayed, others remain hidden, waiting to be discovered by future generations of watchmakers. The technical characteristics demonstrate the manufacture's savoir-faire and represent improvements over the original. Power reserve has been increased to 80 hours and movement thickness has been reduced. This provides a more elegant presence on the wrist whilst operating at a frequency of 3 Hz.

The Tourbillon Platinum represents a bridge between the past and the future for Daniel Roth. The commanding presence of platinum connects to the brand's early history, whilst the refined double-ellipse case and contemporary dial aesthetic point towards new horizons. Each element, from the hand-soldered lugs to the meticulously guillochéd dial components, exemplifies the brand's guiding principle: La Montre Objet d'Art.

This is watchmaking as it was intended to be practised: with patience, dedication, and an unwavering commitment to craft. In an age of rapid technological advancement, Daniel Roth timekeepers remain steadfastly traditional, preserving the art of measuring time for those who appreciate the profound beauty found in mechanical precision and timeless elegance.