Tudor’s Black Bay Chrono in S&G

New Watch! • 01 Apr 2019

Tudor’s Black Bay Chrono in S&G

by Alvin Chong

Expanding The Chrono Line-Up

The new Tudor Black Bay Chronograph Steel and Gold (S&G) marks a significant aesthetic departure from the Black Bay Chronograph that was released in 2017. The former exudes vintage charms, while the latter represents a cooler and more utilitarian appearance. This new release injects life and attention to the Black Bay Chronograph.

Black Bay + Chronograph

When the Tudor Heritage Black Bay was released in 2012, it was an overwhelming success for the brand and it ignited a spark for its future direction. Since then, the Black Bay range grew exponentially, ranging from the Black Bay 36 and to the very popular Black Bay GMT and Black Bay 58 released in 2018. In 2017 the Black Bay Chronograph was announced and it introduced a chronograph function to what is otherwise a simple and heavily inspired time-only dive watch.

2019 Shaping Up As The Year of S&G

As it uses the same case as the Black Bay, the Black Bay Chrono retains the useful 200m water-resistant property. In 2018, an S&G variant of the Black Bay was introduced into the lineup, and it was only a matter of time before this colour scheme was applied onto the other watches within the Black Bay family. Fast forward to a year later and it has found its way onto the Black Bay Chronograph S&G.

The watch utilises the same 41mm case of its contemporaries, featuring beautiful bevels that run along the side of the case. One thing to note is that the Black Bay Chronograph has been slightly redesigned such that it is slightly slimmer than its predecessor. Its domed crystal is thinner and the dial of the watch sits higher and closer to the crystal, allowing the watch to be slimmer.

The Black Bay Chronograph S&G has many generous gold applications that will make even the most ardent fans of two-tone rejoice. The bezel, endlinks of the bracelet and the chronograph are all solid 18K yellow gold, while the other parts are gold capped. The hands, indices and some of the typography of the dial are also gold-accented which really stand out when juxtaposed against the black matte dial. Perhaps my favourite design aspect is that the subdials are also in gold. As they are also recessed, they really add depth and structure to the dial. This, coupled with their gold colour scheme, blends seamlessly with the other gilt details on the dial and commands attention with the produced vintage look.

Vintage Pedigree

The solid yellow gold bezel has an anodised black aluminium insert with similar gold-accented bezel markings compared to a solid steel-brushed bezel of its predecessor. The combination of all these design features will no doubt make some enthusiasts to draw similarities between the famed “John Player Special” Rolex Daytona, although the main inspirations of the watch are the gold Prince Oysterdate Big Block chronographs of the 1970s. Given the illustrious history between Rolex and Tudor, I would not be surprised if the Black Bay Chrono S&G makes some subtle nods as a tribute to the Daytona. Enveloping these details is a beautifully-domed sapphire crystal that is highly resistant to scratches, accentuating the watch’s already strong personality.

Calibre MT5813

Powering the watch is the column-wheel chronograph calibre MT5813, an impressive collaboration between Tudor and Breitling. The movement is based on the Breitling B01 chronograph movement and has a vertical clutch as well as a silicon balance spring. The movement is also COSC-certified and has an enduring 70-hour power reserve. The movement allows for a date feature at 6 o’clock. The subdial at 9 o’clock shows the running seconds while the one at 3 o’clock displays a 45-minute time counter. To increase legibility of the subdials information, the snowflake hand of the hand is slimmer and narrowing to minimise obstruction. A nice and thoughtful detail indeed. For Tudor to offer this movement at the price point of the Black Bay Chronograph is a great value proposition.

Wrapping Up

The watch is available in a trio of strap choices; a leather bund, a fabric strap from the famed Julien Faure or a two-toned S&G bracelet. The Black Bay Chronograph S&G seems to be riding on the wave of popularity of two-tone. With the simultaneous release of the Rolex Sea-Dweller 43 being released in a two-tone, as well as many other two-tone watches in Baselworld this year, the Black Bay Chronograph S&G does have some competition, though with its bold vintage appearance and charms, it makes a strong case as one of the forerunners.

Tags: black bay chronograph tudor

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