A new self-winding perpetual calendar makes its debut in the De Bethune collection. The DB25sQP reinterprets the DB25 with a radiating guilloché pattern adorning 12 sectors, in a smaller 40mm titanium case.
De Bethune launched their original perpetual calendar in 2011. Tinged with poetry, it combined the finesse of watchmaking with precision mechanics to deliver a romantic complication – the moon phase and its starry sky – with a highly technical complication – the perpetual calendar – in the one exceptional watch. This latest release reinterprets the classic DB25QP, in a new 40mm titanium case.
Practical Yet Romantic
The DB25sQP retains the harmonious lines of the DB25 collection. Its integrated, openworked and curved lugs not only being one of the hallmarks of De Bethune design, but also serving a practical purpose of ensuring comfort on the wrist.
Visually, the watch exudes classical elegance. Within the 40mm titanium case, the dial of the new DB25sQP features a hand-guilloché silver centre with a fine radiating pattern. The blue chapter and subdial rings provide contrast, and make the silver applied indexes all the more legible.
The subdial at 12 o’clock sets a 3D spherical moon phase indicator in palladium and blued steel against a blued titanium sky studded with inlaid rose gold stars. This has an accuracy of one lunar day every 122 years. A gold pastille serves as a leap year indicator. Two apertures, at 3 and 9 o’clock, show the month and day of the week on anthracite discs with silver decal, while the subdial at 6 o’clock indicates the day of the month.
An Updated Movement
The understated and classical design belies the technical brilliance of the new DB25sQP. Turn over the watch, and the new calibre DB2324V2 is visible through the anti-reflective sapphire case back. Measuring in at 30mm in diameter, the updated movement is 5mm smaller than the original DB2324 movement. No small feat considering the new movement delivers the same accuracy and power reserve as the original.
The new DB2324V2 movement comprises of 423 parts with 48 jewels and incorporates several De Bethune patents, including the titanium and white gold balance wheel and the flat terminal curve balance spring, a silicon escape wheel, and an optimised oscillating weight in titanium and platinum. The self-winding movement has a 5-day power reserve, thanks to the self-regulating twin barrel – another De Bethune patent. The combination of the triple pare-chute and oscillating weight shock absorbing systems ensure the watch is well-protected from the rigours of daily life. All this, in a beautifully decorated sandblasted and hand-snailed three-quarter plate with starry décor, blued titanium balance bridge and oscillating weight arms, and hand finished parts.
The new De Bethune 40mm Perpetual Calendar in Titanium comes on an extra supple alligator leather strap with a pin buckle in polished titanium. Production is limited to 15 pieces per year.