Going Full Circle
Should you be in the lookout for a ‘form watch’ – anything other than a circular watch – you’d be pressed to find a brand better equipped than Cartier. Since strapping a square-shaped watch onto the wrist of Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904, Cartier has thrived on this sub-genre. Creating all matter of eccentric form watches, from the neither-round-nor-square Tonneau to the Dali-esque Cartier Crash. Shaped watches where simply something that people have come to expect from Cartier.
During the 1990’s La Maison also offered the Santos as Santos Ronde, but it could never come close to the success the square model had. Of course, Cartier did make watches with round cases, but when they did, more often then not, there was something special about them. The Pasha de Cartier first made its appearance in 1985 and was directly derived from a special order placed in 1943 and duly referenced in the Maison’s archives. Combining a round case with a canteen crown and vendome lugs, the Pasha de Cartier came to define the exuberance of the 1980s.
Cult Classic Since 1985
As far circular cases go though, the Pasha de Cartier is hardly conservative. When it was launched in 1985 it stood out with its large (for the time) 38mm case, unconventional canteen-style crown protector, vendome mobile lugs and eccentric dial design. Designed as Cartier’s answer to the sports-luxury Royal Oak and Nautilus, the Pasha de Cartier was an immediate hit amongst both men and women.
Cartier’s 2020 revamp adopts all the iconic design cues of the original, while making some tweaks. The new Pasha de Cartier looks set to be an excellent base for the brand to launch complicated variations off of in the future – as was the case with the original collection.
The Pasha de Cartier’s particularly nonconformist dial features oversized Arabic numerals in an Art Deco font, framing a square filigree rail-track in the centre of the dial. Within the inner area defined by the rail-track lies a date window between the 4 and 5 o’clock positions and blued hour, minute (both sword-shaped) and seconds hands. The silver dial is finished with a gradient-like effect and is stamped with a subtle guilloché scallop pattern radiating out from the central cannon pinion.
Faithful to the original 1985 model, the modern incarnation of the Pasha de Cartier has a fluted cabochon-capped chained crown. Designed to protect the hidden winding crown underneath.
With the Pasha watch, Cartier is unveiling a new customisable engraving. Carved in the form of initials, the engraving appears under the crown cover, secret and undetectable. In true Cartier fashion, it is only revealed when the chained crown of the Pasha de Cartier watch is unscrewed.
In steel, gold or leather, straps can readily be swapped out thanks to an adaptation of the Cartier-developed QuickSwitch system. This invisible mechanism blends into an architecture located under the case and is activated by a single push.
The sizing adjustment of the metal bracelet to the nearest link has been designed with convenience in mind. The SmartLink system, which has been registered for a patent, allows the bracelet length to be adjusted by the owner without the use of a tool. Each SmartLink link is equipped with a push button that releases the fixing bar allowing removal or addition of the metal links of the Pasha de Cartier watch.
1847 MC Calibre
The Pasha de Cartier is equipped with a sapphire crystal case back that reveals its movement, the 1847 MC automatic calibre. This in-house movement is a testament to the wearability of the new Pasha, with its extensive anti-magnetic and water-resistant properties.
The use of non-magnetic nickel phosphorus components for the movement’s escape mechanism as well as a shield made of a paramagnetic alloy integrated into the case allow the 1847 MC calibre bolster the Pasha’s resistance to magnetic fields emitted from personal electronics. In addition, the screw-connection design affords the new Pasha de Cartier a water-resistance of 100 metres, without compromising its slim profile.
Interested in the Pasha de Cartier? Drop us a line. Our team of Cartier watch specialists would love to assist.