Reviving 1940s Watch Design With Breitling Premier Heritage Collection

New Watch! • 11 Aug 2021

Reviving 1940s Watch Design With Breitling Premier Heritage Collection


Breitling unveiled earlier this year three new models to complement the Premier Heritage Chronograph collection: the B09 Chronograph, the B15 Split Seconds Chronograph and the B25 Chronograph with Day, Date and Moonphase. All of them are available in stainless steel or in red gold. The coloured dials have delighted watch enthusiasts and it is a pleasure for us to examine them up close.

Inspired by Vintage Breitling Watches  

This heritage-inspired design with a stylish modern twist embodies some of Breitling’s most famous innovations, and revives Breitling’s legacy of inventing the modern chronograph. This truly is our heritage revived,” says Georges Kern of Breitling’s timelessly elegant new collection. 

The Premier Heritage Collection pays homage to Breitling’s very own Founders Squad: three generations of men who changed the history of timekeeping and made Breitling what it is today. Léon Breitling founded the company in 1884; later, he patented a simple timer/tachymeter that could measure any speed between 15 and 150 km/h, an invention featured in the 1906 Vitesse pocket watch. 

 

Breitling Premier B15 Duograph 42 – Stainless Steel with Blue Dial
Breitling Premier B15 Duograph 42 – Stainless Steel with Blue Dial

 

In 1915, his son, Gaston, created one of the first wrist-worn chronographs with an independent pusher at 2 o’clock. This innovation separated the start, stop, and reset functions from the crown, making it infinitely more practical for timing sports.

In 1934, Léon’s grandson, Willy, patented the second independent chronograph pusher at 4 o’clock. Among Willy Breitling’s celebrated pioneering achievements was the establishment of the Huit Aviation Department in 1938. 

 

Breitling Premier B15 Duograph 42 – 18K Red Gold with Black Dial
Breitling Premier B15 Duograph 42 – 18K Red Gold with Black Dial

COSC-Certified Chronographs 

Besides being bold and tech savvy, Willy Breitling understood people’s desire for a touch of elegance and glamour. This inspired him to design the original Premier wristwatches in the 1940s, Breitling’s first step in linking purpose with style. As Willy saw it, “When a man puts on his watch, it is the unmistakable stamp of impeccable taste.” 

The latest generation of Premiers – Breitling’s Premier Heritage Collection – brings this timeless elegance back to life. The collection includes six watches divided into three distinctive categories: The Chronograph, The Duograph, and The Datora. 

All feature Arabic numerals, vintage-inspired hands and semi-shiny alligator straps with tone-on-tone stitching. Every watch is a COSC-certified chronometer and water-resistant up to 100 meters. 

 

Breitling Premier B09 Chronograph 40 – Stainless Steel Pistachio Green Dial
Breitling Premier B09 Chronograph 40 – Stainless Steel with Pistachio Green Dial

Manually Wound Manufacture Calibre B09

The 40 mm Premier Heritage Chronograph is manually wound, just like its 1940s predecessors. It is powered by the Breitling Manufacture Caliber B09, which is based on the Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01. It comes in two variations: with an eye-catching pistachio-green dial encased in stainless steel or a stately silver-colored dial encased in 18 k red gold. 

 

Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42 – 18K Red Gold with Silver Dial
Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42 – 18K Red Gold with Silver Dial

 

With stainless-steel and 18 k red gold cases measuring 42 mm, the Premier Heritage Duograph comes with a blue or black dial, respectively. Its rattrapante function – one of the most elaborate in watchmaking – enables the wearer to measure two elapsed times simultaneously thanks to its two superimposed chronograph hands. This piece houses the mechanical hand-wound Breitling Manufacture Caliber B15, which is based on the Breitling Manufacture Caliber B03. 

Like its 1940s predecessor, the 42 mm Premier Heritage Datora also stands out for its highly visible and complex functions, namely its day, date, and moon-phase displays. It is powered by the Manufacture Caliber B25. The Datora’s copper-coloured face is framed by a stainless-steel case, while its silver-coloured dial comes in an 18 k red gold one. 

All three models of the Premier Heritage Collection highlight Breitling’s mastery of timekeeping as it has evolved over the generations.

 

Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42 – Stainless Steel with Copper Dial
Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42 – Stainless Steel with Copper Dial
Tags: breitling chronograph moonphase


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