Horological Cycle: Classic Gentlemen’s Watches Are Back In Fashion Again

Truth be told, in the pursuit of more and more superlative pieces for one percenters, classic, bread-and-butter pieces that are true to a brand’s credo can sometimes be sidelined as a result. But if there’s any silver lining from the world economy’s softening, though, it is that eminently wearable, classic gentlemen’s watches receiving the attention that they deserve again.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5227G
This industry stalwart has never wavered from its mission to create tasteful, elegant and timeless pieces. Take, for example, this Calatrava. The black, lacquered dial juxtaposed against white-gold hands and applied hour markers exudes beauty in its austerity. The officer’s-style case, which features a dust cover for the sapphire-crystal display back, boasts an invisible hinge that took years of research and development to create.

MB&F Legacy Machine 101
While other MB&F machines are undisputedly works of art, their audacious designs can be too conspicuous to be worn daily. The LM101 fixes that. It is still at its heart a magnificent creation, with its slow-beat balance wheel suspended over the dial, yet discreet enough to not call undue attention to itself. Best of all, it contains the manufacture’s first in-house movement, made in collaboration with the legendary watchmaker Kari Voutilainen.

Girard-Perragaux 1966
The 1966 collection by this La Chaux-de-Fonds-based manufacture has long been a favourite among those who prefer a clean, no-nonsense dial with a beautifully executed in-house movement. The latest model introduces a steel case for the first time, making the watch more accessible, while retaining the signature classic style that the 1966 is famous for.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Calendar
Since its beginning, the Reverso is an elegantly simple concept. Together with JLC’s magical and light touch, every new spinoff delights. The Tribute Calendar model goes back to the roots of this heritage watch, with two independent faces, one showing a calendar and the other displaying a moon-phase. Excellent finishes abound, such as a guilloché dial with “clous de Paris” hobnail patterning and hand-applied hour markers.

Nomos Glashütte Metro Neomatik
Based in the renowned German watchmaking town, Nomos produces handcrafted, Bauhaus-inspired timepieces with in-house mechanical movements. The Metro neomatik features a 35-mm diameter case in stainless steel, with a curved sapphire crystal glass covering the dial, and another sapphire crystal glass at the back to show off the extra-thin DUW 3001 calibre with automatic winding.

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